Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
This interesting stronghold of Old England in the East is fertile in
descriptive matter by the wholesale, but I can't rob my friends in
the Philippines of more space than enough to chronicle the doings of
a Chinese tailor who made me up my first suit of thin tweeds. Ripping
off the broad margin to the Hong Kong Daily Press, he stood me on a
box, took my measure with his strip of paper, making sundry little
tears along its length, according as it represented length of sleeve
or breadth of chest, and sent me off with a placid "Me makee allee
same plopper tree day; no fittee no takee." And I'm bound to say that
the thin suits Tak Cheong built for $6 apiece, from nothing but the
piece of paper full of tears, fit to far greater perfection than the
system of measurement would seem to have warranted.
The voyage from Hong Kong to Manila, 700 miles to the southeast, is one
of the worst short ocean-crossings in existence, and the Esmeralda,
Captain Tayler, as she went aslant the seas rolling down from Japan,
in front of the northeast monsoon, developed such a corkscrew motion
that I fear it will take a return trip against the other monsoon to
untwist the feelings of her passengers. On the morning of the second
day, however, the yawing ceased; the skipper said we were under the
lee of Luzon, the largest and most northern island of the Philippines,
and not long after the high mountains of the shore-range loomed up
off the port bow. From then on our chunky craft of 1,000 tons steamed
closer to the coast and turned headland after headland as she poked
south through schools of flying-fish and porpoises.
By afternoon the light-house on Corregidor appeared, and with a big
sweep to the left the Esmeralda entered the Boca Chica, or narrow
mouth to Manila Bay. On the left, the coast mountains sloped steeply
up for some 5,000 feet, while on the right the island of Corregidor,
with its more moderate altitude, stood planted in the twelve-mile
opening to worry the tides that swept in and out from the China
Sea. Beyond lay the Boca Grande, or wide mouth used by ships coming
from the south or going thither, and still beyond again rose the lower
mountains of the south coast. In front the Bay opened with a grand
sweep right and left, till the shore was lost in waves of warm air,
and only the dim blue of distant mountains showed where the opposite
perimeter of the great circle might be located.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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