Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
The splendidly trained artillery-band, composed entirely of natives,
but conducted by a Spaniard, plays half a dozen selections each
evening, and here is a treat that one can have every afternoon of
the year, free of charge. There are no snow-drifts or cold winds to
mar the performance, and, except during the showers and winds of the
rainy season, it goes on without interruption.
After the music is over the carriages rush off in every direction,
behind smart-stepping little ponies that get over the ground at a
tremendous pace, and the dinner-hour is late enough not to rob one
of those pleasant hours at just about sunset. There are no horses in
Manila--all ponies, and some of them are so small as to be actually
insignificant. They are tremendously tough little beasts, however,
and stand more heat, work, and beating than most horses of twice
their size.
Our Christmas dinner at the club has just ended, and from the bill
of fare one would never suspect he was not at the Waldorf or the
Parker House. Long punkas swung to and fro over the big tables,
small serving boys in bare feet rushed hither and thither with
meat and drink, corks popped, the smart breeze blew jokes about, and
everyone unbent. Soups, fish, joints, entrées, rémoves, hors-d'oeuvres,
mince-pies, plum-puddings, and all the delicacies to be found in cooler
climes had their turn, as did a variety of liquid courses. Singing,
speeches, and music followed the more material things, and everyone was
requested to take some part in the performance. By the time the show
was over the piano was dead-beat and everybody hoarse from singing
by the wrong method.
II
Shopping at the "Botica Inglesa"--The Chit System--Celebrating
New Year's Eve--Manila Cooking Arrangements--Floors and
Windows--Peculiarities of the Tram-car Service--Roosters
Everywhere--Italian Opera--Philippine Music--The Mercury at 74°
and an Epidemic of "Grippe"--Fight Between a Bull and a Tiger--A
Sorry Fiasco--Carnival Sunday.
January 7th.
My third Sunday in Manila is a cool breezy day, with fresh winds
blowing down from the mountains. The weather has lately been as
temperate as one could wish, and has corresponded to some of our soft
spring conditions. From noon until three o'clock has usually seemed
warm, but the mornings have made walking pleasant, the afternoons
have given opportunities for tennis, and the evenings have hinted
that an overcoat would not be amiss. One could hardly ask for any
more comfortable place to live in than Manila as it stands to-day,
and although sanitary appliances are most primitive, the city seems
to be healthy and without noisome pestilence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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