Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
The week from the 18th of March to the 25th was practically one long
holiday, but it was Wednesday, the 21st, in the afternoon, that we
left Manila for the interior. Rand and I got up the trip by procuring
a large and commodious steam-launch for five days--gratis. Having
done our share, we left our three companions to look after the "chow"
and other kindred topics. To my "boy" I merely said, "Wednesday we are
going up to the laguna; prepare what is necessary for four days." That
was all, and on Wednesday afternoon I found him at the launch with my
clothes and bedding all ready to start. Here also were assembled hams,
boxes of ice, and other provisions, big bundles of personal effects,
and the four "boys" (a "boy" may be seventy years old if he likes)
whom we were going to take along.
The whistle blew, the special artist with his camera ambled aboard,
amidst a pile of sun-hats, oranges, and excitement, and soon the
Vigilante was steaming up the river on her sixty-mile trip. Familiar
objects were first passed, but soon after leaving the uptown club new
scenes presented themselves. The launch stirred up large waves astern
that washed both banks of the river with great energy, and the first
incident was the swamping of three banca-loads of grass that were on
their way down to Manila under charge of Indian pedlers. Turn after
turn opened up new scenes; our house on the hill began to fade away,
and soon we skimmed through native villages where white blood was
"not in it." The hills increased in size, the river lessened, and
great bamboo-trees hung over toward the central channel. At one point,
high up on the bluffs, perched a Chinese pagoda-like chapel, said to
have been constructed by a wealthy Celestial as a thanks-offering for
his escape from a crocodile. He was bathing in the river, so the story
goes, when suddenly he saw the monster making for him. He threw up his
hands and vowed to build a monument to his patron saint if escape was
vouchsafed him. And no sooner had he spoken than the crocodile turned
to stone and lies there to-day, a long, low black mass, fretting the
current that ripples over it. As we passed the rock it looked as if
it had never been anything else, but the afternoon was too pleasant
to doubt the veracity of the legend. On we went. The mountains ahead
grew more to look like masses of rock and trees and less like soft
blue velvet. Pasig, an important town, was left behind, the lowlands
came again, a multitude of fish-weirs stuck up ahead, and before we
knew it the great lake was holding us on its rather muddy waters just
where it slobbered into the mouth of the river, its only outlet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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