Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
After dinner we sat out on the balcony to watch the procession
that wound around through the various streets, starting from
the fortress-like church and finally bringing up there. These
church parades are a good deal like our torch-light processions,
except that here images, not mud-besprinkled men, carry most of
the torches. In this affair there were a dozen or more floats,
each one bearing a saint, an apostle, or somebody else, and each
decorated with very costly drapery, ornaments, and elaborate candelabra
illuminators. Scattered all along between the floats straggled natives
carrying poles on which were images of a candle, a hand, a spear, a
pair of nails, a cock, a set of garments, and other symbolic articles
relating to the crucifixion. Then came Peter on a very elaborate
moving pedestal, and in his hand he held the traditional bunch of
keys. Then a Descent from the Cross, with two apostles standing up
on step-ladders. Next came the band of the procession--three men
singing to the tune of an old violin--and finally the Virgin Mary
with glass tears rolling down her wax cheeks. On each side of the
line from start to finish trooped the populace, mostly women dressed
in black and carrying candles.
Next day was Good Friday. No traps of any description to be had, as
none were allowed to run, and so we spent the day about the town and in
walking up into the hills. A look into the great, solid old church in
the morning showed us a fragrant and gaudily dressed audience kneeling
in various postures on the tiled floors, while numerous dogs of various
cross breeds and tempers meandered in through the door and among
the worshippers. From the church we strolled across a very primitive
bamboo bridge over a branch river, and wandered through a luxurious
cocoanut grove beneath whose tall trees were situate a couple of very
rudimentary cocoanut-oil mills and the houses of the operators. The
machinery was very crude. One might think he was back in the days of
stone knives, seeing these simple contrivances, the awkward levers,
the foot-power grindstones, and the old pots and kettles. In the river
near the mills were thousands of cocoanuts ready to be tied together
in rafts for floating down to Manila, and everybody's business up this
way seemed to consist in watching this oily fruit fall from the trees.
In the early evening, just before another religious procession started,
we heard a great clatter up in the belfry of the old church, and
learned that the hubbub was made by "devil-frighteners." On inquiring
as to the nature of this weird clap-trap symphony, it seems that on
these especially holy days men are stationed up in the bell-towers
with huge wooden rattles, which they so manipulate from time to time
that the noise is said to act as a scare-crow to the various devils
who are supposed to be hovering about seeking whom they may devour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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