Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
At noontime our native cooks did themselves proud in getting up a game
breakfast, and in the afternoon the launch backed off and steamed
across the narrow bay to Los Baños itself, a little town clustering
around some boiling springs whose vapor floats over a good hotel
and some elaborate bathing-establishments. This seems to be a rather
favorite resort for the Spanish population of Manila at certain times
of the year, and once or twice a week the old side-wheeler Laguna de
Bay stops here on her way up from the capital to Santa Cruz.
Behind the town the land slopes steeply up to the mountain heights
of still another extinct volcano, whose ghost exists merely to give
life to the hot waters of the springs below. In front it runs off
to the lake shore, and, all in all, the scenery is as picturesque
as the air is healthy. From Los Baños we crossed the lake, cruised
down along the abrupt mountainous shores between the two fine old
promontories of Halla Halla, that jut out like the prongs to a W,
and stopped every now and then at some particularly attractive little
native village coming down to the water's edge. At about sundown on
Monday afternoon, the prow was turned Manilaward, and after a cool
sunset sail of twenty miles we drew in at the portico of the uptown
club, all the better for our two day's trip, which cost us each but
a little over five gold dollars.
Last night there occurred another one of those religious torch-light
processions which are so common in the streets of Old Manila. It
started after sunset, inside the city walls, from a big church brightly
illuminated from top to bottom with small candle-cups that gave it
the appearance of a great sugar palace. The procession consisted of
many richly decorated floats, containing life-size figures of saints
and apostles dressed in garments of gold and purple and borne along
by sweating coolies, who staggered underneath a draping that shielded
from view all save their lower limbs and naked feet. The larger floats
were covered with dozens of candelabra and guarded by soldiers with
fixed bayonets. Other rolling floats of smaller magnitude were pulled
along by little children in white gowns, while troops of old maids,
young maids, and Spanish women marched before and behind, dressed in
black and carrying candles. The black mantillas which fell gracefully
from the heads of many of the torch-bearers gave their faces a look of
saint-like grace, except at such times as the evening breeze made the
candle-grease refractory, and one might easily have imagined himself
a spectator at a celebration in Seville.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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