Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
Many bands all playing different tunes in different times and keys,
rows of hard-faced, fat-stomached priests trying to look religious
but failing completely to do so, and five hundred small boys, who,
like ours at home, formed a sort of rear guard to the solemnities,
all went to make up the peculiar performance. The whole long affair
started from the church, wound through the narrow streets, and finally
brought up at the church again, where it was saluted by fireworks
and ringing of bells.
In the balconies of the houses that almost overhung the route were
smiling crowds of lookers-on, and Roman candles and Bengola lights
added impressiveness to the scene, or dropped their sparks on the
garments of those promenading below. As the various images of the
Virgin Mary and the Descent from the Cross passed by, everyone took off
his hat and appeared deeply impressed with religious feeling. After the
carriers of the floats had put down for good their expensive burdens
in the vestry of the church, a few liquid refreshments easily started
them quarrelling as to the merits of their respective displays. One set
claimed that their Descent from the Cross was more life-like than that
carried by their rivals, and they almost came to blows over which of
the Virgin Marys wore the finest clothes.
Yesterday was the celebration of the expulsion of the Chinese invaders
from the Philippines, about a hundred years ago, and the whole city
was aglow with flags and decorations. In the afternoon everybody
went to the Luneta to see the bicycle races and to hear the music. A
huge crowd surged around the central plaza, and the best places in
the band-stand were reserved for the Spanish ladies and Government
dignitaries. The races were slow, but the crowd cheered and seemed
perfectly satisfied as one after another of the contestants tipped over
going around the sharp corners. After the races a beautiful Spanish
maiden, whose eyes were so crossed that she must have easily mixed
up the winning bicycle with the tail-ender, distributed the prizes,
and the police had hard work to keep the crowd from overwhelming the
centre of attraction. Then everybody listened to the music, walked or
drove around in carriages, and waited for the fireworks, which were
set off not long after sunset. The costly display was accompanied
by murmurings of "Oh!" from hundreds of throats. There was an Eiffel
Tower of flame, several mixed-up crosses that twisted in and out of
each other, numerous scroll-wheels, fountains, and a burst of bombs
and rockets. Some of the parachute stars gracefully floated out over
the Bay and descended into the water, causing startled exclamations
from the natives, who are not accustomed to look on fireworks with
equanimity. But as of old, everything finally ended in smoke, and the
multitude melted away, thoroughly satisfied with the celebration of
the anniversary of the victory over the Chinese.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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