Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
We got out of the river at eight o'clock, saw the three warning,
red, typhoon lanterns glaring at us, and started full speed ahead for
Romblon, our first calling-port, eighteen hours away. Dinner was served
on deck from a large table formed by closing down the huge skylights
to the regular dining-saloon below, and the eaters took far more
enjoyment in their Spanish bill of fare under the awnings than they
would have done had the same victuals been dished up downstairs. I
say "victuals," for the word seems to be the only invention for just
such combinations as were set before us, and "dished up" suggests
the scooped-out-of-a-kettle process far better than "served." Spanish
food is rather too mixy, too garlicky, too unfathomable for me, but
as one can get used to anything I accommodated myself to the puchero
(a mixture of meat, beans, sausages, cabbage, and pork), and was soon
eating fish as a fifth course instead of a second. The feast began
with soup and sundries, and was continued by the puchero which was
merely an introduction to the fish course, the roast, and all the
cheese and things that followed. Every dinner was practically the
same, differing slightly in details, and the deck each time played its
part as dining-room. Early breakfast came at six, late breakfast came
at ten, and dinner poked along at five--a combination of meal hours
which was enough to give one indigestion before touching a mouthful.
During the night we all waited in vain to hear the sizzling of the
typhoon that came not, and got up next morning to find the scare
had been for nothing. The clouds and rain were clearing away, and
the prow of the Uranus was headed directly for a region of blue
sky. By breakfast-time there was hardly a cloud in the heavens,
the rooster up for'ard began to crow, the mooly-cow which we were
soon to eat began to moo, the islands in front drew nearer, and the
scene became fairer each moment. At noon we steamed below a great
mountainous island, crossed a sound between it and another group,
entered a narrow channel, and at one o'clock dropped anchor in
the small land-locked harbor of Romblon. Everywhere the hills fell
abruptly into the water, and houses looked as if they had slid down
off the steep slopes to hobnob with each other in a mass below. There
was a public bath down beside a brook, where everybody came to wash,
an old church, the market-place, and a prodigious long flight of steps
leading up to the upper districts, where the view down back over the
low nipa houses toward the bay was most extensive.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account