Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
We stayed in this little Garden of Eden until after three o'clock,
then pulled out to the steamer, and left again for the south, over
a calm sea and beneath a glorious sky. Some of us slept on deck in
the moonlight, but, finding it if anything too cool and breezy, were
up betimes to see the island of Cebu looming on our right hand. Our
early six-o'clock breakfast finished, we sat up on the bridge in
easy-chairs, beneath the double awning, as the Uranus poked down along
the mountainous coast toward the city of Cebu. At ten o'clock we passed
through the narrow channel that leads between a small island and its
big brother Cebu, and soon saw the white houses of the town lapping
the harbor's edge. Two American ships were apparently taking in their
cargoes of hemp, and beside them a small fleet of native craft and
steamers smudged the little bay. Anchor was dropped again and those of
us who cared to go ashore met some of our former friends from Manila on
'change and took a look over this great hemp-centre of the South.
The local excitement was limited, and, except that a Chinaman had
been beheaded by some enemy the night before as he was walking home
through the street, news was scarce. Numerous people, however, were
gathered together outside the police-station, looking at the remains,
and several sailors from the American ships, who had swum ashore
during the night to get drunk, were being returned to their vessels
in charge of the civil guard.
The Uranus was not to stop long, and most of the through
passengers returned early to the steamer to enjoy a view tempered
by rather more breeze and less smell than that which the narrow
streets afforded. Cebu, from the deck, was worthy of a sonnet; the
white houses and church spires were set off against the dark-green
background of mountains, and as the sun got lower the place did not
have the broiled-alive aspect that it bore during the middle of the
day. At four the stubby little Captain came aboard, and soon we turned
northeast for our next stopping-place, Ormoc. Another colored sunset,
another dinner in the golden light, another moonrise, another sail up
among the islands, and at eleven on the evening of Monday we entered
the harbor of Ormoc. Here two or three ponies were hoisted overboard to
be taken landward, a can of kerosene was loaded into the purser's boat
as he went ashore with the papers, and a little chorus of shoutings
concluded our midnight visit to the second stop of the day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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