Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
Tuesday morning the sun rose over the lofty mountains on the island
of Leyte, and the Uranus shaped her course for Catbalogan, another
of the larger hemp-ports. The steam up the bay blotched with islands
was perfection, and by ten o'clock the anchor hunted round for a
soft bed in the ooze, some eight hundred yards off a sandy beach,
above which lay the town. Those of us who had energy enough to bolt
our hearty breakfast were taken by the jolly-boat onto the mud flats,
and were carried through the shallow water on oars to dry land. On
the slopes of the higher mountains, behind the town, the hemp-plants
(looking exactly like banana-trees), grew luxuriously, and in front
of many of the houses in Catbalogan the white fibre was out drying
on clothes-lines. A short taste of the hot sun easily satisfied our
curiosity as to Catbalogan, and we were off to the ship again for more
breakfast, just as several hungry-looking Spanish guests, including
the Governor's family, came aboard from the town to partake of a meal
hearty enough to last them till the arrival of the next steamer.
From Catbalogan to its sister town, Tacloban, four hours to the south,
the course leads among the narrow straits between high, richly wooded
islands, and the scenery was most picturesque. Here and there little
white beaches gleamed along the shore, and in front of the nipa
shanties that now and then looked out from among the trees hung rows
of hemp drying in the sun. Off and on the big waves, kicked up by the
forward movement of the Uranus in the land-locked waters, woke up the
stillness resting on the banks, and nearly upset small banca loads of
the white fibre which was perhaps being paddled down to some larger
centre from more remote stamping-grounds. From the bridge our view
was most comprehensive, and it wasn't long before the steamer actually
entered the river like strait that separates the islands of Samar and
Leyte. We twisted around like a snake through the narrow channel,
on each side of which were high hills and mountains, richly treed
with cocoanuts and hemp-plants, and, just as the sun was getting low,
hauled into Tacloban, situated inside an arm of land that protects
it from the dashing surges of the Apostles' Bay beyond.
At Tacloban there was little to see. A high range of hills rose
behind the town, and in the evening half-light everything looked more
or less attractive. We climbed a small knoll that looked off over
the Bay of St. Peter and St. Paul to the south and down over the
village. The strait through which we came stretched up back among
the hills like a river, and in the foreground lay the Uranus. A
number of hemp store-houses lined the water-front, and as usual the
ever-present Chinese were the central figures of the commercial part
of the community. At eight the anchor came up once more, and we left
Tacloban to steam religiously down the bay of St. Peter and St. Paul
for Cabalian, eight hours to the south.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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