Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
Morning introduced us to a shaky wharf and to a group of gig-drivers,
who said the town was fully three miles away. We were in the enemy's
country, but nevertheless two of us started off to walk to the village,
following quite a party who had already taken the road. It was an
hour's plod along beneath tall cocoanut-palms before we came to the
main part of the settlement, surrounding the jail, court-house, and
residence of the Spanish Governor. Hard by ran a river spanned by a
curious suspension-bridge. It carried the high road to the village
and country on the other bank, and in our party from the steamer was
an engineer who had come down to inspect this structure, which but
a short time ago had utterly collapsed under the strain of its own
opening exercises, killing a Spaniard, and cutting open the head of
the Governor's wife. Of late, however, the bridge had been repaired,
and the question seemed to be, was it safe? For my benefit, as I walked
over the long eight-hundred-foot span, the old bridge wobbled around
like a bowl of jelly, and considering that there were alligators in
the reflective waters below, I did not feel I was doing the right
thing by my camera and friends to stay longer where I was. Some of
the secondary cables were flimsy affairs, and inspection revealing
the fact that the structure was just one-twentieth as strong as it
ought to be, placards were put up to the effect that the bridge was
closed except for the passing of one person at a time.
At the bridge we fell into talk with a pleasant Spaniard, who was the
interventor or official go-between in affairs concerning Governor and
natives. We asked him as to the prospects of finding some Moro arms,
knives, and shields in the settlement for being in a district upon
which a recent descent had been made it seemed as if the town should
be rich in bloody curios. He gave us some encouragement, and off we
trotted across the central plaza with its old church, on an expedition
of search. It seems that all the houses around this plaza were armed
to the teeth, and in time of need the whole place could be transformed
into a fort. Every house in the pueblo had one of the newest type
of Mauser rifles standing up in the corner, and in fifteen minutes
fifteen hundred men could be mustered ready armed to fight the savage
Moros. We really felt as if we were in one of the Indian outposts of
early American days, and were quite interested in the conversation
of our guide, who seemed to take a great liking to two foreigners. We
went into several little huts where knives and spears were hung upon
the doors, and succeeded in exchanging many of our dollars for rude,
weird weapons with waving edges or poisoned points. We passed several
"tamed" Moros in the street and took off some bead necklaces, turbans,
and bracelets which they had on. Further search revealed shields and
hats, and before the morning turned to afternoon we had visited nearly
half the houses in the village.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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