Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
Sometimes a tune on the ever-present
piano, coaxed out by yours truly, would bring a shield from off the
wall, and at others the more telling music coming from the jingling
dollars was more effectual.
For dinner we went to the house of the interventor to lunch on some
grass mixed with macaroni, canned fish, bread and water, and if I
hadn't been so much occupied with our Spanish conversation I might have
felt hungry. After the meal our host wanted me to take a photograph
of him and his wife dressed up in a discarded theatrical costume,
and it was quite as ludicrous as anything on the trip. An upholstered
throne--part of the stage-setting in their play of the week before--was
rigged up in the back yard, and the señor and señora, robed as king and
queen of Aragon, put on all the airs of a royal family as they stood
before the camera. These good people pulled the house to pieces to
show us wigs, crowns, and wooden swords, and it seemed as if we should
never get away. Later, however, our good friend borrowed a horse in
one place, a carriage in another, helped us to go around and collect
our various purchases, presented me with a shield which he took down
off his own wall, and drove us back to the steamer. Here we unloaded
all the stuff, and, surrounded by a curious throng of questioners,
went aboard to stow our possessions away. The day had been a prolific
one, and, although we had not expected to go into the curio business
on the excursion, our respective staterooms were now loaded up with
gimcracks that would interest the most rabid ethnographer.
Toward midnight the Uranus steamed out of the Bay of Cagayan and
headed for Misamis, still farther south. Another calm night, and
Saturday morning saw us approaching a little collection of nipa huts
presided over by an old stone fort and backed up by the usual high
range of mountains. Two Spanish gunboats, the Elcano and Ulloa, all
flags flying, in honor of Sunday or something were at anchor in the
Bay, and at eight o'clock we pulled ashore to fritter away an hour
or so in looking about an uninteresting village. There was a saying
here that no photographer ever lived to get fairly into the town,
for the only two who had ever come before this way were drowned in
getting ashore from their vessels. As I walked about the streets,
several Indian women stuck their heads out of the windows of their
huts seeming quite amazed to see a live picture-maker, and asked
in poor Spanish how much I would charge for a dozen copies of their
inimitable physiognomies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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