If we go across the river by the modern bridge, we can see the humble
remains of St. Martin’s Priory standing in a meadow by the railway. The
ruins consist of part of a Perpendicular tower and a Norman doorway.
Perhaps the tower was built in order that the Grey Friars might not
eclipse the older foundation, for St. Martin’s was a cell belonging to
St. Mary’s Abbey at York, and was founded by Wyman, steward or dapifer
to the Earl of Richmond about the year 1100, whereas the Franciscans in
the town owed their establishment to Radulph Fitz-Ranulph, a lord of
Middleham in 1258. The doorway of St. Martin’s, with its zigzag
mouldings, must be part of Wyman’s building, but no other traces of it
remain. Having come back so rapidly to the Norman age, we may well stay
there for a time while we make our way over the bridge again and up the
steep ascent of Frenchgate to the castle.
On entering the small outer barbican, which is reached by a lane from
the market-place, we come to the base of the Norman keep. Its great
height of nearly 100 feet is quite unbroken from foundations to summit,
and the flat buttresses are featureless. The recent pointing of the
masonry has also taken away any pronounced weathering, and has left the
tower with almost the same gaunt appearance that it had when Duke Conan
saw it completed. Passing through the arch in the wall abutting the
keep, we come into the grassy space of over two acres, that is enclosed
by the ramparts. There are some modern quarters for soldiers on the
western side which we had not noticed before, and the grass is levelled
in places for lawn tennis, but we had not expected to discover imposing
views inside the walls, where the advantage of the cliffs is lost. We do
find, however, architectural details which are missing outside. The
basement of the keep was vaulted in a massive fashion in the Decorated
period, but the walls are probably those of the first Earl Alan, who was
the first ‘Frenchman’ who owned the great part of Yorkshire which had
formerly belonged to Edwin, the Saxon Earl. It is not definitely known
by what stages the keep reached its present form, though there is every
reason to believe that Conan, the fifth Earl of Richmond, left the tower
externally as we see it to-day. This puts the date of the completion of
the keep between 1146 and 1171. The floors are now a store for the
uniforms and accoutrements of the soldiers quartered at Richmond, so
that there is little to be seen as we climb a staircase in the walls, 11
feet thick, and reach the battlemented turrets. Looking downwards, we
gaze right into the chimneys of the nearest houses, and we see the old
roofs of the town packed closely together in the shelter of the mighty
tower. A few tiny people are moving about in the market-place, and there
is a thin web of drifting smoke between us and them. Everything is
peaceful and remote; even the sound of the river is lost in the wind
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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