When in the early years of life one learns for the first time the name
of that range of mountains forming the backbone of England, the youthful
scholar looks forward to seeing in later years the prolonged series of
lofty hills known as the ‘Pennine Range.’ His imagination pictures
Pen-y-ghent and Ingleborough as great peaks, seldom free from a mantle
of clouds, for are they not called ‘mountains of the Pennine Range,’ and
do they not appear in almost as large type in the school geography as
Snowdon and Ben Nevis? But as the scholar grows older and more able to
travel, so does the Pennine Range recede from his vision, until it
becomes almost as remote as those crater-strewn mountains in the Moon
which have a name so similar.
This elusiveness on the part of a natural feature so essentially static
as a mountain range is attributable to the total disregard of the name
of this particular chain of hills. In the same way as the term
‘Cumbrian Hills’ is exchanged for the popular ‘Lake District,’ so is a
large section of the Pennine Range paradoxically known as the ‘Yorkshire
Dales.’
It is because the hills are so big that the valleys are deep, and it is
owing to the great watersheds that these long and narrow dales are
beautified by some of the most copious and picturesque rivers in
England. In spite of this, however, when one climbs any of the fells
over 2,000 feet, and looks over the mountainous ridges on every side,
one sees, as a rule, no peak or isolated height of any description to
attract one’s attention. Instead of the rounded or angular projections
from the horizon that are usually associated with a mountainous
district, there are great expanses of brown tableland that form
themselves into long parallel lines in the distance, and give a sense of
wild desolation in some ways more striking than the peaks of Scotland or
Wales. The thick formations of millstone grit and limestone that rest
upon the shale have generally avoided crumpling or distortion, and thus
give the mountain views the appearance of having had all the upper
surfaces rolled flat when they were in a plastic condition. Denudation
and the action of ice in the glacial epochs have worn through the hard
upper stratum, and formed the long and narrow dales; and in Littondale,
Wharfedale, Wensleydale, and many other parts, one may plainly see the
perpendicular wall of rock sharply defining the upper edges of the
valleys. The softer rocks below generally take a gentle slope from the
base of the hard gritstone to the river-side pastures below. At the
edges of the dales, where waterfalls pour over the wall of limestone--as
at Hardraw Scar, near Hawes--the action of water is plainly
demonstrated, for one can see the rapidity with which the shale
crumbles, leaving the harder rocks overhanging above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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