On one side of us is the King’s Head, whose steep tiled roof and square
front has just that air of respectable importance that one expects to
find in an old-established English hotel. It looks across the cobbled
space to the curious block of buildings that seems to have been intended
for a church but has relapsed into shops. The shouldering of secular
buildings against the walls of churches is a sight so familiar in parts
of France that this market-place has an almost Continental flavour, in
keeping with the fact that Richmond grew up under the protection of the
formidable castle built by that Alan Rufus of Brittany who was the
Conqueror’s second cousin. The town ceased to be a possession of the
Dukes of Brittany in the reign of Richard II., but there had evidently
been sufficient time to allow French ideals to percolate into the minds
of the men of Richmond, for how otherwise can we account for this
strange familiarity of shops with a sacred building which is unheard of
in any other English town? Where else can one find a pork-butcher’s shop
inserted between the tower and the nave, or a tobacconist doing business
in the aisle of a church? Even the lower parts of the tower have been
given up to secular uses, so that one only realizes the existence of the
church by keeping far enough away to see the sturdy pinnacled tower that
rises above the desecrated lower portions of the building. In this tower
hangs the curfew-bell, which is rung at 6 a.m. and 8 p.m., a custom,
according to one writer, ‘that has continued ever since the time of
William the Conqueror.’ The bell, we know, is not Norman, and the tower
belongs to the Perpendicular period, but the church is referred to in
Norman times, and Leland, writing in the reign of Henry VIII., suggests
an earlier survival. He may, of course, be describing Norman grotesque
carvings, but, on the other hand, he may be recording some relics of a
more barbarous age when he writes: ‘There is a Chapel in _Richemont_
Toune with straung Figures in the Waulles of it. The Peple there dreme
that it was ons [a temple of] Idoles.’ I wonder if those carved figures
were entirely destroyed in the days of the Commonwealth, or whether they
were merely thrown aside during some restoration, and are waiting for
digging or building operations to bring them to light.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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