Above the eastern side of the valley, where the Derwent takes its deep
and sinuous course towards the alluvial lands, the chalk first makes its
appearance in the neighbourhood of Acklam, and farther north at
Wharram-le-Street, where picturesque hollows with precipitous sides
break up the edge of the cretaceous deposits. Eastwards the high
country, scarred here and there with gleaming chalk-pits, and netted
with roads of almost equal whiteness, continues to the great headland of
Flamborough, where the sea frets and fumes all the summer, and lacerates
the cliffs during the stormy months. The masses of flinty chalk have
shown themselves so capable of resisting the erosion of the sea that the
seaward termination of the Wolds has for many centuries been becoming
more and more a pronounced feature of the east coast of England, and if
the present rate of encroachment along the low shores of Holderness is
continued, this accentuation will become still more conspicuous.
The open roads of the Wolds, bordered by bright green grass and hedges
that lean away from the direction of the prevailing wind, give wide
views to bare horizons, or glimpses beyond vast stretches of waving
corn, of distant country, blue and indistinct, and so different in
character to the immediate surroundings as to suggest the ocean. Here
and there up against the sky-line appear long dark coppices, and
half-hidden in a hollow, a purely agricultural hamlet nestles, its
presence being only made apparent by the slender spire or grey tower
peeping over the hedges. On a morning when the wind is marshalling the
clouds in echelon across the sky, and belts of shadow go a-hunting
across the swelling hill-sides, the scenery wears the aspect illustrated
here; the sunny, smiling landscape I always expect on chalk uplands.
At Flamborough the white cliffs, topped with the clay deposit of the
glacial ages, approach a height of 200 feet; but although the thickness
of the chalk is estimated to be from 1,000 to 1,500 feet, the greatest
height above sea-level is near Wilton Beacon, where the hills rise
sharply from the Vale of York to 808 feet, and the beacon itself is 23
feet lower. On this western side of the plateau the views are extremely
good, extending for miles across the flat green vale, where the Derwent
and the Ouse, having lost much of the light-heartedness and gaiety
characterizing their youth in the dales, take their wandering and
converging courses towards the Humber. In the distance you can
distinguish a group of towers, a stately blue-grey outline cutting into
the soft horizon. It is York Minster. To the north-west lie the
beautifully wooded hills that rise above the Derwent, and hold in their
embrace Castle Howard, Newburgh Priory, and many a stately park.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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