In going westward we come, at the village of North Cave, to the southern
horn of the crescent of the Wolds. All the way to Howden they show as a
level-topped ridge to the north, and the lofty tower of the church
stands out boldly for many miles before we reach the town. At first
Howden seems a dull and somewhat disappointing town, compared with what
we would have expected to have seen surrounding a collegiate church on
such imposing lines. There are too many modern houses of that
unsatisfactory whity-red brick so extensively used in these parts of
Yorkshire. If the houses were colour-washed, this would be unimportant,
but only in rare instances is this done, and these are almost invariably
the oldest buildings. The cobbled streets at the east end of the church
possess a few antique houses coloured with warm ochre, and it is over
and between these that we have the first close view of the ruined
chancel. The east window has lost most of its tracery, and has the
appearance of a great archway; its date, together with the whole of the
chancel, is late Decorated, but the exquisite little chapter-house is
later still, and may be better described as early Perpendicular. It is
octagonal in plan, and has in each side a window with an ogee arch
above. The stones employed are remarkably large. The richly moulded
arcading inside, consisting of ogee arches, has been exposed to the
weather for so long, owing to the loss of the vaulting above, that the
lovely detail is fast disappearing. To make a temporary roof of light
rafters and boarding, covered with old or smoked tiles, and to fill the
windows with plain glass, would be inexpensive, and would not be
unsightly. With this first aid carried out, there would be time to
collect a sufficient sum for properly restoring this architectural gem.
The west end of the nave is a fine example of Decorated work, and shows
in its turrets how much more beautiful the transepts of Beverley might
have been if it had been built at a slightly later period. The tower is
in two stages, and although it is all Perpendicular, the upper portion
is much later than the lower. There are survivals of Early English work
in the south transept, where the tombs of several members of the ancient
families of Saltmarsh and Metham are of absorbing interest.
About four miles from Howden, near the banks of the Derwent, stand the
ruins of Wressle Castle. In every direction the country is spread out
green and flat, and, except for the towers and spires of the churches,
it is practically featureless. To the north the horizon is brought
closer by the rounded outlines of the wolds; everywhere else you seem to
be looking into infinity, as in the Fen Country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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