Ordinarily the Spaniard "may find perfect entertainment in a crust of
bread and a bit of garlic" as the proverb claims, but at Yule-tide his
stomach demands many delicacies peculiar to the season. The _Puchero
Olla_, the national dish for dinner, must have a few extra ingredients
added on this occasion. The usual compound of chickens, capons, bacon,
mutton, beef, pig's feet, lard, garlic, and everything else the
larder affords, is quite insufficient to be boiled together on this
occasion. However, if one has no relatives to invite him to a feast,
it is an easy matter to secure a Christmas dinner on the streets,
where men are ready to cook for him over their _braseros_ of charcoal
and venders are near at hand to offer preserved fruits, the famous
almond rock, almond soup, truffled turkey, or the most desirable of
the season's delicacies,--sea-bream, which is brought from Cadiz
especially for Christmas use, and which is eaten at Christmas in
accordance with the old-time custom. Nuts of all kinds are abundant.
By the side of the streets, venders of chestnuts--the finest in the
world--lean against their clumsy two-wheeled carts, picturesque in
costumes that are ragged and soiled from long service. Rich
layer-cakes of preserves, having almond icing with fruits and
liquor-filled ornaments of sugar on top, are frequently sent from
friend to friend for dinner.
In Seville, and possibly in other places, the people hurry to the
cathedral early in the afternoon in order to secure good places before
the high altar from which to view the _Siexes_, or dances. Yes,
dances! This ceremony takes place about five o'clock just as the
daylight fades and night draws near. Ten choristers and dancers,
indiscriminately termed _Siexes_, appear before the altar clad in the
costume of Seventeenth-Century pages, and reverently and with great
earnestness sing and dance an old-time minuet, with castanet
accompaniment, of course. The opening song is in honor of the Virgin,
beginning:
"Hail, O Virgin, most pure and beautiful."
Among the ancients dancing was a part of religious services, but it is
now seldom seen in churches. This Christmas dance, given in a
beautiful cathedral just at the close of day, is a very impressive
ceremony and forms a fitting close to the Spanish Christmas, which is
so largely made up of customs peculiar to ancient and modern races.
In every part of Spain song and dance form an important part of the
festivities of Yule-tide, which lasts two weeks, although the laboring
class observe but two days of pleasure. At the palace the King holds a
reception on New Year's, not for the public generally, but for the
diplomats and grandees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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