Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
The whale fishery reminds us of what it was on the Brazilian coast a
century ago. The mammals are sometimes found in soundings, and a wounded
sperm-whale lately entered Zanzibar harbour. In May, June, and July,
ships of 200 to 600 tons visit the waters south of Mafiyah Island; if
the capricious leviathan be not found there and then, it is waste time
to cruise about. In July, and at the beginning of the N. East monsoon,
schools migrate up the coast in search of food as far as the Red Sea.
From 30 to 60 lbs. of ambergris have been brought in one year to the
island, and a little of it is exported to Europe. This high-priced
article (1 lb. = £14) is taken from the rectum of the spermaceti whale:
it seems to have caused constipation and disease, and the oil drawn from
these fish is yellow and bad. The Arabs burn it in pastiles, and use it
not only internally but externally like musk. Old travellers report that
the Somal taught camels to hunt for it by the scent, in the same way as
pigs learn to find truffles; and the tale has been told to modern
travellers. The main virtue of ambergris is probably its heavy price.
The celebrated ‘Sir’ (Seer) fish, a corruption from Shir Mahi (شير ماهی)
or ‘tiger fish,’ so called on account of its armature, known to the
Arabs as Kunad (کناد) and in parts of India termed ‘Surmá,’ appears, for
about a fortnight, at Zanzibar during its period of migration northwards
in May and June. There are also ‘pomfrets,’ scates, soles which are
small and not prized, and red and gدrey mullet, excellent in July,
August, and September. The remora and the flying-fish enter the harbour;
the hippocampus is known; there are mangrove-oysters, ‘oysters growing
on trees’—a favourite subject with all old and with many new African
travellers—and a small well-flavoured, rock oyster, a favourite relish
with Europeans, caught about Chumbi Island. I saw no lobsters, so common
in the Camaroons river of Western Africa. The sands abound in Medusæ, or
jelly-fish, and in a large cray-fish, which the Arabs consider wholesome
for invalids: it makes a rather insipid salad, but it is excellent when
dressed after the fashion of the Slave Coast. The receipt is worth
giving, and may be found useful in England. The meat, taken out after
boiling, is pounded and mixed with peppers and seasoning. It is then
restored to the shell, the whole is baked in the oven, and, served up
piping hot, it forms an admirable ‘whet.’ Another kind of shell-fish is
indeed a ‘soft crab;’ when cooked it seems to melt away, no meat
remaining within: a third, also soft, is red even before being boiled.
On every unfrequented strip of sand or weed small crabs gather in
thousands; most of them have only one large claw, and their colours are
a brilliant pink, pearly white, violet, and tender red.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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