Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
Of course we had no adventures. We saw neither pirate nor slaver. The
tract seemed desert of human life; in fact, nothing met our eyes but
flying-fish at sea, gulls and gannets near shore. The stiff N. East
trade never quite failed us, even when crossing the Line, and the
Doldrums hardly visited us with a tornado or two—mere off-shore squalls.
The good old heart of teak, then aged 33 years, made an average of 150,
and an exceptional run of 200 knots, in 24 hours. This was indeed ‘gay
sailing on the bosom of the Indian Sea.’ After 16 days (Dec. 18), before
the solar lamp had been removed, our landfall, a long, low strip at
first sky-blue and distance-blurred, had turned purple, and had robed
itself in green and gold, with a pomp and a glory of vegetation then new
to us. This was Pemba, one of the three continental islands composing
the Zanzibarian archipelago: the Arabs call it Jazirat el Khazrá (Green
Island), and no wonder! Verdant and fresh enough must this huge
conservatory, this little and even richer Zanzibar, appear to their
half-closed ‘peepers,’ dazed and seared by the steely skies and brazen
grounds of Mángá[8] (Arabia generally) and Maskat (Muscat), and by the
dreadful glare and ‘damnable blue’ of the Persian Gulf and the Indian
Ocean. We are soon to visit this emerald isle, therefore no more of it
at present.
All had hoped to run in that night, but Fate or our evil deeds in the
last life otherwise determined. The wind fell with the sun, and during
the five minutes of crepuscule we anchored in the sandy bay-strand under
Tumbatu Island, S.W. of Point Nunguwi (Owen’s Nangowy), the north cape
of its big insular brother, Zanzibar. Like the items of this archipelago
generally, it is a long cairn-shaped reef of coralline, with its greater
length disposed N.S. This well-known norm of great peninsulas has been
explained by a sudden change in the earth’s centre of gravity, which
caused the waters to rush furiously from the northern hemisphere towards
the south pole. As usual, the burning suns, the tepid winds, the sopping
dews, and the copious rains clothe the thin soil with an impervious coat
of verdure, overhanging the salt-waters, and boasting a cultivation that
would make spring in green Erin look by its side autumn—rusty and
yellow-brown.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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