Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
The tortoise-shell, so often mentioned in the Periplus as an export from
Menouthias (chap. xv.) and Rhapta (chap. xvii.), has until lately been
neglected. Like Bombay Calabar, and our Isle of Dogs in the olden time,
the few acres of Turtle Island were used to ‘keep antelopes, goats, and
other beasts of delight,’ while vicious baboons were deported to it from
the city. Below it is the celebrated ‘Harpshell Bank,’ now mercilessly
spoiled. Southernmost is Chumbi Island, alias La Passe, which, mistaken
for the Turtle, has caused, many a wreck. These mishaps are not always
accidental. One day Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton saw, through his glass, the
master of a Frenchman deliberately stow himself and his luggage in the
gig, put off, and leave his ship to run her nose upon the nearest reef.
These islands form the well-known ‘Passes,’ channels intricate with
lithodom-reefs and mollusk-beds. They number four, namely, the northern
or English Pass, between Champáni and Zanzibar; the N. W. or French
Pass, between Kibondiko and Changu; the great or middle, between Changu
and Báwi; and the western, south of Báwi. The principal entrance was
buoyed by the late Sayyid, but these precautions soon disappeared.
Within the line of break-waters is the anchorage, which may be
pronounced excellent; ships ride close to shore in 7 to 8 fathoms, and
the area between the islets and the island may be set down at 3·8 square
miles. It presents an animated scene. Mosquito fleets of ‘ngaráwa’ or
monoxyles cut the wavelets like flying proas, under the nice conduct of
the sable fishermen, who take advantage of the calm weather. The
northerners from about Brava have retained the broad-brimmed straw hat,
big as an average parasol. Like that of Malabar, Morocco, and West
Africa, it was adopted by their Portuguese conquerors. The machua or
‘little boats’ of the Lusiads, which De Barros calls ‘Sambucos,’[19] are
still the same, except that a disproportioned sail of merkani (American
domestics), based upon a pair of outriggers, now supplies the primitive
propeller,
‘d’humas folhas de palma bem tecidas.’
The outrigger is rarely neglected. Here and there a giant shark shoots
up from the depths, and stares at the fishermen with a cruel, fixed, and
colourless eye, that makes his blood run cold. Only the poorest of poor
devils will venture into a ‘dug-out,’ which is driven before the wind or
paddled with a broad, curved, spoon-like blade. These Matumbi, or
hollowed logs, form a curious national contrast with the launches and
lighters that land European merchandise; ponderous and solid squares,
their build shows nothing graceful or picturesque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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