Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
The much-puffed squadron of the late Sayyid, stationed during his life
at Mto-ni, and now being divided amongst the rival heirs, flanks with
its single and double tiers of guns these peaceful traders, of whom, by-
the-by, some are desperate pirates. The number is imposing; but the
decks have no awnings against the weather, the masts are struck and
stripped to save rigging, the yards lie fore-and-aft upon the booms, the
crews consist of half-a-dozen thievish, servile ‘sons of water’ (M’áná
Májí); rats and cockroaches compose the live stock; the ammunition is
nowhere, and though the quarter and main decks are sometimes swept,
everything below is foul with garbage and vermin. The exteriors are
dingy; the interiors are so thoroughly rotted by fresh water that the
ships are always ready to go down at their anchors. The whole thing is a
mistake amongst Arabs, who are fitted only for a ‘buggalow,’ or at best
a ‘grab.’ The late Sayyid once attempted English sailors, who behaved
well as long as they did what they pleased, especially in the minor
matters of ’baccy and grog; but when the dark-faced skipper began loud
speaking and tall threats, they incontinently thrashed him upon his own
quarterdeck, and were perforce ‘dismissed the service.’ Every captain in
the R. N. Maskat, besides impudently falsifying the muster-rolls, will
steal the fighting-lanterns, the hammocks, and other articles useful at
home; whilst the care-takers sell in the bazar, junk, rope, and line;
copper bolts, brass-work, and carpenter’s chests bearing the government
mark. When a ship is wanted an Arab Nakhoda (here called Náhozá), a
Muallim or sailing-master, and a couple of Sukkanis (pilots), are sent
on board with a crew composed of a few Arab non-commissioned officers
and ‘able seamen,’ Baloch, Maskatis, and slaves. The commander, who
receives some 50 dollars per lunar month, kills time with the cognac
bottle; the sailing-master (7 dollars) dozes like a lap-dog in his own
arm-chair on the quarter-deck; and the seamen do nothing, Jack helping
Bill. One of these vessels sent to England a few years ago lost, by want
of provisions and bad water, 86 out of its crew—100 men; and can we
wonder at it? A single small screw-steamer, carrying a heavy gun, and
manned and commanded by Europeans, would have been more efficient in
warfare, and far more useful in peace, than the whole squadron of hulks.
It is, however, vain to assure the Arab brain that mere number is not
might; and, indeed, so it is when people believe in it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account