Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
I have been prolix upon these points, which suggest that the difficulty
of reaching the Lunar Mountains, or the ‘Invisos Fontes,’ were in
London, not in Africa; that the main obstacles were not savages and
malaria, but civilized rivalry and vis inertiæ; and that the requisites
for success were time, means, and freedom from official trammels. Hardly
had we reached Cairo (Nov. 6, 1856), and had inspected an expedition
fitted out by H. H. the late Abbas Pasha, and admirably organized by the
late Marie Joseph Henri Leonie de Lauture, Marquis d’Escayrac (generally
known as Comte d’Escayar de Lauture), when an order from the Court of
Directors summoned me back to give evidence at some wretched Court-
martial pending on Colonel A. Shirley. The document being so worded that
it could not be obeyed, we—Lieut. Speke and I—held on our way.
And even when outward bound, I again got into trouble, without being
able, as was said of Lord Gough, to get out again. A short stay at Suez,
and the voyage down the Red Sea, taught me enough of Anglo-Indian
mismanagement and of Arab temper, to foresee some terrible disaster.
Again that zeal! Instead of reporting all things couleur de rose, I sent
under flying seal, through the Royal Geographical Society, with whom I
directly corresponded, a long memorandum, showing the true state of
affairs, for transmission to the home branch of the Indian Government.
This ‘meddling in politics’ was ‘viewed with displeasure by Government,’
and reminded me of the old saying—
‘Wha mells wi’ what anither does,
May e’en gang hame and shoe his goose.’
The result was a ‘wig’ received in the heart of Africa, and—curious
coincidence!—accompanying that sheet of foolscap was a newspaper
containing news of the Jeddah massacre (June 15, 1858), and of our
farcical revenge for the deaths of Messrs Page, Eveillard, and some
fourteen souls, nearly the whole Christian colony.[5] It need hardly be
mentioned that this catastrophe showed the way to others, especially to
the three days ‘Tausheh’ of Damascus in 1860.
Fortune had now worked her little worst. We had a pleasant passage to
Bombay (Nov. 23, 1856), where affairs assumed a brighter aspect, as we
began preparing for the long exploration. Lord Elphinstone, after an
especial requisition, allowed Lieut. Speke to accompany me. He also
kindly ordered the Hon. East India Company’s sloop of war Elphinstone,
Captain Frushard, I.N., to convoy us, knowing how much importance
Orientals attach to appearances—especially to first appearances. My
‘father’ Frushard gained nothing by the voyage but the loss of his pay;
therefore is my gratitude to him the greater. Nor must I forget to
record the obliging aid of Mr, now Sir Henry L. Anderson, Secretary to
the Government of Bombay; he enabled us to borrow from the public stores
a chronometer, surveying instruments, and other necessaries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account