Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2) — John Shaqi
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
Our gallant captain of the beard—‘the Lord have mercy upon him for a
hen!’—determined to doze away the day, and to pass a snug sleepy night,
anchored in some quiet bight. His crew also, although living upon Jack
fruit, and supplied with only two skins of fresh water, grumbled
exceedingly when I ordered a δρομος νυχθημερος. For a whole day they had
tacked about the creek and basin till the shades of evening fell, and
force was required to keep the canvas aloft. Presently, when running out
of Pemba, grave doubts and misgivings about the wisdom of the proceeding
came over me as the moonless night fell like a pall, and, exaggerated by
the dim twinkling of the stars, rose within biscuit-toss the silhouettes
of islet and flat rock, whence proceeded the threatening sounds of a
‘wash.’ Soon, however, emerging from the reefs, we smelt sea air, and we
felt with pleasure the throb of the Indian Ocean.
During the three days that followed our patience was sorely tried. The
sky was now misty, hiding the shore, so that sometimes we went south
instead of north; then the spitting deepened to heavy rain, whilst the
thermometer stood at 83° (F.). The Azyab or N. East wind, high and
contrary, blew great guns, and a strong current set clean against us.
The combing sea, with waves raised some five feet, was most unpleasant
during the long moonless nights: on this coast there are more shoals and
coralline reefs than harbours, and the lee-shore, within a few yards of
which we were periodically drifted, was steep to, with rocky banks and
bars. Mariners rarely sail by night, except before a fair and steady
wind, and in the open roadsteads they are ill-defended from the strong
N. East monsoon. We long sighted the two high hummocks called Wasin
Peaks, and we were compelled to ride at anchor off Gasi Bay, the
strained old Riami creaking at every timber, and rolling gunwales under.
Pleasant scenes were the rule. Mutton-livered Saíd, groaning and
weeping, started up every half-hour during that ‘black night,’ and
screamed with voice altered by violent flesh-quake, till he makes us all
nervous as himself. The captain, sitting on the Zuli (deck), cried, Rih!
Rih!—wind! wind!—asked what could be done, and more than once, as we
were driven on towards a reef, definitively declared the Riami lost. The
sailors, green and yellow with hard work and hunger, tacking out with
the Barri (land breeze), and in with the Azyab, would not bale except
under the stick. The iron boat sinking once, and twice snapping her
painter in the long rolling sea, gave us abundant trouble. At last, as a
thick cloud veiled Jupiter and Venus, a cry arose that she had again
broken loose; and we resolved to make Mombasah, trusting that Tate would
restore her. More than once we thought of landing, and of walking along
the shore to our destination: for if all was unpleasant outside the
‘Beden,’ the inside, with its atmosphere of cockroaches, bilge water,
and rotting wood, was scarcely more attractive.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account