Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2) — John Shaqi
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
We are now in the Gavana (i. e. Governo), at present the Arab town, as
opposed to the Mji wa Kale, Harat El Kadimeh, the ‘old quarter,’ the
Black Town of the Portuguese. The site of the former is a dwarf rise at
the S. Eastern and seaward edge of the Island, and it faces to the N.
East, where over the pure blue channel orchards and verdure and wells of
pure water commend the mainland as a villeggiatura. The form of the
settlement is a parallelogram running N. West to S. East, and it was
separated from the Black Town by a wall 10 to 12 feet high. This, under
the Mazrui Shaykhs, was repaired and provided with a few bastions;
between the Gavana and the citadel, however, a defensive work was not
judged necessary, and now—an excellent sign—the rampart is rapidly
falling to ruins. Here are the tombs of the local heroes who made
Mombasah a historic name, and under a shed repose the remains of the
Mazara governors, beginning with Mohammed bin Usman. The tombs are of
masonry, and are distinguished by bearing epitaphs, which are somewhat
in the style of prayers recited before the graves of Walis at Meccah and
El Medinah. Amongst them is the sepulchre of Khuwaysah bint Abdillah, a
woman apparently with a soul, for Allah is begged, to ‘make her home
Paradise, with the best of its inmates.’
The materials of the Gavana are brown thatch huts, clustering round a
few one-storied, flat-roofed boxes of glaring lime and coral rag,
equally rude within and without. On the N. West lies the ‘native’ half,
which prolongs the Arab quarter beyond the enceinte; this suburb is
wholly composed of sun-burned and wind-blackened hovels, forming a
labyrinth of narrow lanes. Outside the faubourg clusters a thicketty
plantation of cocoa and fruit trees; here was the favourite
skirmishing-ground between the Sayyid’s troops and the Mazrui defenders
of the city. Mombasah is, as far as Nature made her, pleasing and
picturesque, but man has done his best to spoil her work. A glorious
‘bush,’ a forest of tall trees, capped by waving palms, laced with
llianas, and studded with shady mangoes, thick guavas, and fat baobabs,
here forming natural avenues, there scattered as in a pleasure-ground,
overspreads the vicinity of the town, whilst the more distant parts to
the West, S. West, and N. West, are dense wild growths, virgin, as it
were, and still sheltering the monkey and the hog, the hyæna and the
wild cat. The presence of man is known only by some wretched hut, or by
a dwarf Shamba-plot of meagre cultivation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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