Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
A report prevalent in Mombasah—even a Msawahili sometimes speaks the
truth—that the Mission House had been attacked by the savages, and the
march of an armed party from the town, showing a belief in their own
words, hurried us up to Kisulodi-ni, on Sunday, January 18. The rumour
proved to be false, but it was a shadow forethrown by coming events: as
M. Rebmann showed certain velléités for martyrdom, I insisted that his
wife, an English woman, should be sent down to Mombasah, and we had the
satisfaction to see the boxes packed. This second visit added something
to our knowledge of the country. The Ghaut, or Coast Range, which has no
general but many partial names, as Rabai, Shimba, and others, varies in
height from 700 to 1200 feet, and fringes the shore from Melinde to the
Panga-ni river. Distant but a few miles from a sea-board of shelly
coralline, it shows, like Madagascar, no trace of the limestone
formation, which forms the maritime region of Somaliland. These hills
are composed of sandstones, fine and coarse, red-yellow and dark brown,
with oxide of iron; the soil, as usual in Western Intertropical Africa,
is a ‘terrier rouge,’ as Senegal was called by the French of the 17th
century, a red ochreous clay, and bits of quartz lie scattered over the
surface. Beyond it are detached hills of gneiss and grey and rufous
granite: the latter is so micareous that the Baloch firmly believe it to
contain gold.
Inland of Mombasah the Rabai Range is a mere ridge, with a gentler
counter-slope landwards, declining 150 to 200 feet, not, as such
maritime formations usually are, the rampart of an inland plateau. This
unusual disposition probably gave rise to the novel idea—instruments
were not used—that the interior falls to, and even below, sea-level,
thus forming a depression, bounded north and south by rapid rivers, the
Adi and the Panga-ni. The chine is broken by deep ravines, which during
the rains pour heavy torrents into the sea-arms at their base: the
people might make tanks and reservoirs by draining the smaller clefts,
but they prefer thirst and famine to sweating their brows. Though
exposed to the blighting salt breeze, the land wants nothing but water,
and, this given, no man need ‘tread upon his neighbour’s toes.’ Arecas
and cocoas, bushy mangoes and small custard-apples, the guava and the
castor plant, the feathery manioc, and the broad-leaved papaw and
plantain flourish upon its flanks. In the patches of black forest spared
by the wild woodman, the copal, they say, and the Mvule, a majestic
timber-tree whose huge trunk serves for planking and doors at Zanzibar,
still linger. I saw none of the cinnamon plants mentioned by Dr Krapf. A
little gum-animi or copal is here dug; but the inveterate indolence of
the natives, their rude equality, in which, as amongst Bushmen, no one
commands, and their inordinate love for Tembo, or palm-wine, are
effectual obstacles to its exploitation. When we visited these hills
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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