Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2) — John Shaqi
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
Escorted by Said bin Salim and his slave, we visited the village Mwándá.
It is the normal collection of cajan-thatched huts, with wattle and dab
walls, gathering round a little Mosque and grave-yard. There are no
stone dwellings, but scatters of such hovels extend far and wide. The
settlement was mostly tenanted by women who hid themselves, by children
who ran away, and by slave-girls who squatted, combing and plaiting one
another’s locks; these grinned merrily enough, having nought to fear.
The faces were hideous to look upon, with black, coarse skins, scarred
and seamed by small-pox; huge mouths, and rolling eyes. Not a few were
lame and toothless, and the general dress was the ungraceful swaddle of
blue, checked or indigo-dyed stuff. Presently we were addressed by an
old man, carrying a spear, and attired in Arab fashion, of red cap,
loin-cloth (Futah), and Tobe (Taub), or shoulder-scarf. Taking us for
traders, who came to buy cocoa and cloves, he placed a Kitandah (cot)
under the central calabash, the gossip-place of the village, and brought
us cocoanut-water, which here takes the place of coffee. In vain we
offered high prices for meat; geese, ducks, and fowls, however, were
abundant.
After a short rest we set out northwards, to inspect the plantations.
Most of the men were at work in their Mashamba; the weeds had been
burned for manure, the primitive manner of restoring nutrition to the
soil, and the peasant, with his rude implements, was smoothing the
lowlands for paddy. Already the light showers of the Azyab had flooded
the ground, and the stagnant stream which we forded was choked with rush
and sedge. A ‘Tell,’ or dwarf rise, was occupied by a farm belonging to
the late Sayyid; here we were again seated and supplied with mangoes.
This fruit, curious to say, would never fall upon the Prince’s head,
although his courtiers often suffered severe contusions—at least, so we
were assured.
After a long walk, which crippled my naked arms and legs with sunburns,
we returned to the shore, and Said complaining, with a visage like
Falstaff’s ‘wet cloak ill-laid up,’ that never before had he endured
such fatigue, we signalled the Riámi for a boat. It was five hours
coming, the wind blew off shore, and we had some trouble in persuading
certain Tumbatu men to carry off the party of six in a monoxyle, a
single log of wood, propelled by a scarf. A few dates and a dollar sent
them back happy, and the Riámi had used her time well in washing decks
and taking in water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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