The Two First Centuries of Florentine History: The Republic and Parties at the Time of Dante. Fourth Impression.
Dante Alighieri · en
Then, too, regarding pasturage and consequently the woollen industry,
it should be added that Tuscany, being a mountainous country, is
adapted to the culture of vines and olives and excellent cereals, but
deficient in meadowland, whether natural or artificial. Accordingly, it
was an exceedingly difficult task to improve the quality and quantity
of the wool produced there. Although the Florentines soon succeeded
in manufacturing the woollen stuffs called _pignolati_, _schiavini_,
and _villaneschi_, these very coarse fabrics, the names of which
sufficiently indicate their quality, only served for a limited trade in
the territory or just beyond the borders of the Republic. And when it
was attempted to improve the manufacture serious difficulties arose.
To weave fine cloth from coarse wool was a fruitless labour; while to
procure foreign wool from distant countries was no easy task in times
when industry and commerce had scarcely any existence, and the cost
of transport would have devoured the profits. Nevertheless, it was by
conquering all these obstacles that the Florentines gave the first
proofs of their genius for trade.
In Flanders, Holland, and Brabant far better wool was obtainable, and
the art of weaving it so long established there that, as in the case of
the linen webs of North Germany, the origin of the craft is lost in the
obscurity of almost pre-historic times. But, notwithstanding the good
quality of the yarn, the woollen stuffs manufactured in those countries
were decidedly coarse, sent to market undressed, badly-finished, and
dyed in very ugly and evanescent colours. Accordingly the Florentine
merchants conceived the idea of importing these foreign stuffs in
order to dress and dye them in their own workshops. Hence the origin
of the Calimala or Calimara craft.[342] Bales of cloth began to arrive
from Flanders, Holland, and Brabant, and these so-called _Frankish_
or _ultramontane_ stuffs were carded, shaved, dressed, and cut in
Florence. This treatment removed all the knots coarsening the surface,
and as the material was much finer than Italian wool it could be easily
dyed in very delicate tints, and the Florentines soon surpassed all
competitors in this particular art. Then, after being carefully ironed,
faced, and folded, the cloth was re-sold in a very different condition
and at a much higher price. From the first there was a great demand for
these goods in Italy, and they were afterwards sent to the East, and
bartered for drugs, dyes, and other Asiatic products. Finally, as their
quality went on improving, they found their way to France, England,
and the same markets whence they had originally come, and where they
were sold in exchange for undressed fabrics. Thus the lack of original
material was not only supplied, but foreign manufactures served to
swell Florentine gains. A very extensive trade was carried on with
comparatively little trouble, and as the process of wool-dressing gave