The Two First Centuries of Florentine History: The Republic and Parties at the Time of Dante. Fourth Impression.
Dante Alighieri · en
Accordingly in 1239 the Humble Brethren arrived and settled near the
city in the Church of San Donato a Torri, granted to them by the State.
Their presence led to the expected result. Before long their house
became one of the principal centres of Florentine industry, so that the
guild-masters complained of the friars' distance from the town, and
urged them to move their establishment nearer to the walls. In 1250
they obtained buildings and land in the suburb of Sta Lucia sul Prato,
and exemption from all taxes on their property, the which privilege
was usually accorded by the Florentines to any one introducing a new
branch of trade in the city. Then, in 1256, the Umiliati founded the
church and monastery of Sta Caterina, in Borgo Ognissanti, and carved
their arms over the entrance, _i.e._, a wool-pack fastened crosswise
by ropes. From that moment the wool craft made enormous advance in
Florence, and in every European market Florentine cloths began to rank
above all others. Efforts were made to improve the rough material and
to use additional care in dressing it, finer wools being imported
from Tunis, Barbary, Spain, Portugal, Flanders, and lastly even from
England. Thus so vast a trade was established, such great wealth
accumulated, that the wool craft rivalled and surpassed the Calimala
itself. Both guilds became great commercial powers in Europe, while in
Florence the government dared not oppose their decisions.[344]
Giovanni Villani informs us, in his valuable account of Florentine
statistics during the year 1338, that there were more than two hundred
wool factories, turning out from seventy thousand to eighty thousand
pieces of cloth, of the total value of one million two hundred thousand
florins, "of the which sum a good third was kept at home for the works,
without counting the earnings of the wool dressers in the said works,
the which supplied a living to over thirty thousand persons." The chief
profits of the trade were obtained by perfection of manufacture, rather
than by any increase of produce. Even Villani remarked that thirty
years earlier, that is, in 1308, the factories were more numerous,
actually as many as three hundred, and producing one hundred thousand
pieces of cloth: "but these stuffs were coarser, and of only half
the value, having no intermixture of English wool, the which indeed
they had not yet learnt to dress with the skill since acquired."[345]
This clearly shows that the craft owed its first improvement in the
thirteenth century to the Humble Friars, and was carried to perfection
in the fifteenth century by the introduction of English woollens.