The Philosophy of Fine Art, volume 3 (of 4): Hegel's Aesthetik
Georg Hegel · en
(_αα_) Once accept this principle, and it may at first sight appear
that such covering is of most signal advantage for the artistic
treatment, which conceals the contour of the limbs, and consequently
also the pose as little as possible, precisely in fact as this is the
case with our sufficiently enclosing _modern_ garments. Our closely
fitting sleeves and trousers follow the outlines of the form, and
stand in the way of the motion and mien least of all by their making
the entire form of the limbs visible. The long white garments and
bulging-out hoses of the Orientals, on the contrary, are intolerable to
our sense of vivacity and multifarious activities, and are only fitting
for folk who, like the Turks, sit the whole day long in one place with
legs crossed, or only perambulate slowly and with great gravity. And
yet we are conscious at the same time--indeed the very first glance
at either modern statues or pictures will establish the truth for
us--that our modern clothing is entirely unartistic. In other words
what we behold in it really is, as I have already in another passage,
insisted, not the fine, free, and vital outlines of the body in their
tender and flowing elaboration, but stretched out sacks with stiff
folds. For albeit we do obtain the most generalized form, yet the
beauty of the organic undulations is lost; and what we really look at
is a contrivance of exterior aim, a matter of tailor's work, which in
one place is stitched together, in another folded back over, and yet in
another made tightly fitting--in other words, as a whole, forms that
are not free, folds and surfaces which are fastened together by stitch,
buttons and button holes. To all intents and purposes such a clothing
as this is simply a cover and veil, which, while devoid of any real
form of its own, yet in its other aspect, though in a general sort of
way following the organic contour of limbs, hides from the view just
that sensuous beauty and vital rondour and undulation which belongs to
them, merely to replace it with the material aspect of the mechanically
elaborated stuff of which it is composed. And thus we get what is so
entirely inartistic in our modern form of garments.