Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East — David Hume — John Shaqi
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
David Hume · en
It was with great joy I heard the news, early in February of 1900,
that my husband had been appointed by the Church Missionary Society
to open medical work in Kerman, and that we were to start almost at
once. Within a month we were married, had bought our outfit, bid
sorrowful farewells to our relations and friends, and started for
the romantic land of Persia. From London to Isphahan took us just
nine weeks, as we were delayed by illness for some weeks both in
Russia and in the Persian Desert. However, on 9th May we entered the
beautiful city of Isphahan, to find a warm welcome awaiting us from
friends there. This place will always have a very warm corner in my
heart, for it was there we made our first home. The doctor in charge
of the work at Julfa (the Christian quarter of Isphahan) having left
on furlough, my husband was asked to remain there till his return,
which he accordingly did. It was not till the following spring that
we left for Kerman. Thus our first impressions of this land of light
and darkness were gathered from Isphahan and its neighbourhood. There
is no after time so full of interest to those who live abroad as the
first year spent in a new life and country, gleaning fresh ideas,
seeing new sights, gaining experiences often dearly bought, but which
must be purchased ere the newcomer can settle down to life in the
East with any comfort or peace of mind.
The native servants love to obtain posts with fresh comers, knowing
that for the first few months, at any rate, they will have an
exceedingly good time, being able to make a huge medaqal (profit)
from the unsuspecting Feringhi. I sigh to think of the many ways in
which we were cheated those first few months of our life in Persia,
but no one breathed a word to us, realising that our eyes would be
opened only too soon, and that experience was the most effectual
teacher. It is a strange fact that all housekeepers new to the land
think their servants are perfect till they find out, perhaps when
too late, their foolish delusion.
From the very first my heart went out in affection to the dear Moslem
women, and now, after eight years spent amongst them, I can truly
say that my love has deepened, and my sympathies become enlarged,
for these charming but, alas, too often unhappy followers of Mohammed.
Our knowledge of Persia extends especially to three cities, in each of
which we spent a year. Isphahan, as we have seen, was our first home,
then came a year at Kerman, a distance of some 500 miles separating
the two cities. Finally we spent a very happy year at Yezd, that
City of Sand, situated midway between Isphahan and Kerman. Of each
of these cities we shall hear more in other chapters.
Persia has well been called the Land of the Lion and the Sun. Certainly
the latter name is well deserved, for the sun is almost always shining,
and without the brilliant sunshine we should hardly recognise it as
the land of Persia.