"You seem to wish that I should give you some general accounts of this
country. Shall I begin with the points in which it most differs from
England, viz., the general regard paid to genius and learning; the
universal and professed, though decent, gallantry to the fair sex; or
the almost universal contempt of all religion among both sexes, and
among all ranks of men? Or shall I mention the points in which the
French begin to concur with the English,--their love of liberty, for
instance? Or shall I give you some remarkable anecdotes of the great men
who, at present, adorn French literature? Perhaps you would wish me to
run over all these topics successively. Alas! there is not one that
would not fill several sheets of paper with curious circumstances, and I
am the most lazy writer of letters in the world: however, I must say
something on these heads; and, first, of the first:--
"There is a very remarkable difference between London and Paris; of
which I gave warning to Helvétius, when he went over lately to England,
and of which he told me, on his return, he was fully sensible. If a man
have the misfortune, in the former place, to attach himself to letters,
even if he succeeds, I know not with whom he is to live, nor how he is
to pass his time in a suitable society. The little company there that is
worth conversing with, are cold and unsociable; or are warmed only by
faction and cabal; so that a man who plays no part in public affairs
becomes altogether insignificant; and, if he is not rich, he becomes
even contemptible. Hence that nation are relapsing fast into the deepest
stupidity and ignorance. But, in Paris, a man that distinguishes himself
in letters, meets immediately with regard and attention. I found,
immediately on my landing here, the effects of this disposition. Lord
Beauchamp told me that I must go instantly with him to the Duchess de la
Valieres.[268:1] When I excused myself, on account of dress, he told me
that he had her orders, though I were in boots. I accordingly went with
him in a travelling frock, where I saw a very fine lady reclining on a
sofa, who made me speeches and compliments without bounds. The style of
panegyric was then taken up by a fat gentleman, whom I cast my eyes
upon, and observed him to wear a star of the richest diamonds;--it was
the Duke of Orleans. The Duchess told me she was engaged to sup in
President Hénault's, but that she would not part with me;--I must go
along with her. The good president received me with open arms; and told
me, among other fine things, that, a few days before, the Dauphin said
to him, &c. &c. &c. Such instances of attention I found very frequent,
and even daily. You ask me, if they were not very agreeable? I
answer--no; neither in expectation, possession, nor recollection. I left
that fireside, where you probably sit at present, with the greatest
reluctance. After I came to London, my uneasiness, as I heard more of