Goethe found another source of inspiration in Strassburg besides
Herder, and one which, as he describes it both in his Autobiography
and in a contemporary effusion, moved him even more powerfully. His
first act on his arrival in Strassburg, he tells us, was to visit its
cathedral whose towers had caught his eye long before he reached the
town. He had been taught by his old master Oeser, who only represented
the general opinion of the time in Germany, that Gothic architecture
was the product of a barbarous age and could be regarded only with
amazed disgust by every person of educated taste. But Goethe's
mystical studies and religious experiences in Frankfort had not left
him what he was in his Leipzig days, and had given him an insight into
movements of the human spirit which did not come within the cognizance
of Oeser. It was with predisposed sympathy, therefore, that he looked
for the first time on a specimen of Gothic architecture in its most
august form. His first impression was of "a wholly peculiar kind";
and, without seeking to analyse the impression, "he surrendered
himself to its silent working." Thenceforward, during his stay in
Strassburg, the cathedral exercised a fascination upon him that evoked
a new world of thought and feeling. It was his delight to ascend its
tower at sunset and gaze on the rich landscape of Alsace, whose beauty
made him bless the fate that had placed him for a time amid such
surroundings. He studied its structure with such minute care that he
correctly divined the additions to the great tower which the original
architect had contemplated, but which he had been unable to carry out.