The male fish-sellers of Lisbon are for a wonder even more picturesque
than the women; for here on the Tagus the seafarers of the south are
first noticeable, quite distinct in racial characteristics as they are
from those of the north. These Lisbon fishermen go barefooted, which the
poorest men of the north never do, they wear breeches only to the knee,
girt by a crimson sash, and the hanging tasselled bag-cap falls and
waves over their shoulder as they loup along with a peculiar springing
gait under a long flexible pole balanced transversely across the
shoulders, at each end of which a flat, shallow basket of fish is
suspended. The vegetable market adjoining that devoted to fish is a
brilliant sight in this favoured land. Heaps of scarlet pimentos and
tomatoes are flanked by enormous yellow gourds, and mountains of purple
grapes incredibly cheap, pomegranates, and big luscious pears jostle
piles of humbler vegetables of the kitchen, and some of the groups of
bright-coloured produce seem to reproduce the old pictures of the
mythical cornucopia overflowing with all the best fruits of the earth.
It is a long and tiring walk from here to Belem, but two lines of
electric trams go thither, one along the river-bank and the other by the
parallel route past Alcantara, and either will serve our turn. Belem is
now but a suburb of Lisbon, continuous lines of houses covering the two
miles of the route. There still remains, however, something of
distinction in this royal village, full of memories as it is of
Portugal’s great day of power and wealth. For here it was that at length
the dream came true, and those long vigils of the Fortunate King on the
savage peak of Cintra were rewarded by the coming of Vasco da Gama to
the squat, sturdy old tower of Belem, that had been in his yearning
thoughts through so many trials and dangers. King Manuel greeted his
great subject, who had brought to his native land the potentiality of
wealth illimitable, here in the village of Belem, at the mouth of the
Tagus; and as the explorer stepped ashore, the king, overjoyed at his
coming, swore to build upon that very spot a Jeronomite monastery
splendid enough to be worthy even of that great occasion. And he kept
his word; for two years afterwards, in 1500, the first course was laid
of a building which surpasses all others in its particular style, and in
some respects is one of the most remarkable ecclesiastical structures in
the world.