A long line of church and monastery adjoining runs parallel with the
sea, the conventual portion partly in ruins but now in course of
reconstruction, and the eye is at first perfectly bewildered by the
richness of the details of the doors and windows of the edifice. Here
Manueline architecture is at its earliest and best, before extravagance
like that of the unfinished chapels at Batalha overwhelmed it. Here the
orthodox florid Gothic and Renaissance styles are leavened, but not
obliterated, by the new spirit of expansion and aspiration that found
its national expression in what is called Manueline. The west door of
the church, where the monastic buildings join it, is extremely
beautiful. On each side are rich canopies under which kneel the king and
queen with their patron saints, and smaller figures exquisitely carved
surround the rest of the door, which is surmounted by flamboyant
pinnacles in the Manueline taste. The general idea of the windows, which
are very large and high, is of a round-topped arch three or four courses
or orders deep, each course being set with bosses of a different, but
always elaborate, pattern, an outer moulding representing a twisted
cable or twined branches in infinite variety, ending in a series of
pinnacles, surrounding the window on the surface of the wall.
The great south doorway facing the road and the Tagus, the principal
door of entrance, almost defies description by its richness and
complexity of ornament, this and the cloisters of the church being
perhaps the best specimen of Gothic Manueline in Portugal. Between the
two doorways into which the entrance is divided there is a pillar or
column, upon which, under a rich Gothic canopy, stands a large figure of
a man wearing a tabard. The scheme of decoration is carried up by a
series of flamboyant pinnacles and canopied figures beautifully
interlaced to the top of the aisle wall. The two great windows flanking
this gorgeous doorway match it in magnificence, and one feels on turning
away from this monument of human skill and ingenuity that here the
short-lived art of the Portuguese Renaissance has reached its highest
flight.
[Illustration: THE SOUTH DOOR AT BELEM]