The impression, however, hardly survives the moment when you cross the
threshold and enter the church itself; for here you see an interior
unlike any other great temple. The first impression is one of immense
unencumbered spaciousness. The ordinary arrangement of nave and aisles
does not exist, but from the floor there spring straight up to a height
that seems prodigious six slender isolated marble pillars, three on each
side. They form no continued arcade, although, of course, they are
aligned, and each pillar is decorated lavishly in high relief with
Renaissance ornamentation in panels, with canopied niches half-way up
their height. From the top of each column spring a series of branches
like the fronds of a palm-leaf, which, meeting in beautiful graceful
curves, form the intricate series of bossed groins which compose the
vaulted marble roof. At the west end of the church three low-pointed
Manueline arches support the choir-loft, and along the north wall twelve
Manueline doorways are ranged, with rich canopied niches above them,
whilst the magnificent transept, with its gorgeous ceiling and royal
chapels and tombs, and its vast Manueline chancel arch of twisted cables
and cordage supporting rich canopied pulpits, altogether produce an
effect of overpowering majesty.
Here in the chancel repose, in splendid tombs, the ashes of the king,
Manuel the Fortunate, and his son, John III., the two great builders of
the fane; and here too lie, in a transept chapel, Vasco da Gama himself,
and Camões, who enshrined in deathless epic the spirit of exalted
enterprise of which the great explorer was the personification, and the
Infante, Prince Henry, the prophetic inspirer. Kings, queens, princes,
and princesses lie around in fretted sepulchres—that ill-used Catharine
of Braganza, Queen-Consort of England, amongst them, here where she
passed the long years of her widowhood—but their very names are for the
most part forgotten now; and this memorable church of Belem, whilst its
daring beauty stands, will remain the shrine of the two greatest figures
of Portugal’s golden age, and of the “Fortunate Monarch,” Manuel, in
whose reign the vision of the Infante was realised.