Snow is practically unknown at Lisbon, and frost is extremely rare. But,
withal, equable and mild as the average hibernal climate of Lisbon is, I
do not personally recommend it as a residence for those who are forced
in the winter to seek a warm, dry, and bracing atmosphere. The smoke of
the numerous factories, and the mist that clings about the river and in
the narrow gullies that contain much of the town, make the place
somewhat depressing. But within fifteen miles of the city, and free from
the objections natural to the valley of the Tagus, there are two resorts
which are, in my opinion, and I speak from experience of both of them,
ideal places in which the unpleasantness and danger of winter in a
northern climate may be escaped. It is, indeed, difficult to overrate
the attractions in this respect of Cascaes and Mont’ Estoril, especially
the latter. Cascaes stands in a lovely bay surrounded by bold, rocky
scenery, and backed by hills which protect it from the north. A fine
sheltered promenade facing the sea possesses a grove of palms more
luxuriant than any that Nice or Cannes can show, and the walks along the
coast are beautiful. Mont’ Estoril, which is within a mile or so of
Cascaes, on the point of the Bay, is of more modern reputation, but is
in some respects to be preferred to Cascaes as a winter resort. The
train from Lisbon, running along the coast for fourteen miles, lands the
visitor to Mont’ Estoril in the midst of a beautifully picturesque
village of hotels and villas, grouped upon the slope of a hill
descending in a semicircle to the sea, with pines and eucalyptus woods
above, and palms everywhere below. The high range of Cintra, and the
lower hills on the north and east, completely protect the place from
inclement winds, whilst the open sea-front on west and south prevents
the sweltering stuffiness and relaxing effect of so many shut-in places.
There are several excellent hotels specially intended for winter
visitors; and for any one to whom a three-days’ voyage at sea in a
commodious, well-found steamer has no terrors, this Portuguese Riviera
just outside the Tagus forms a winter refuge which it will be difficult
to beat in Europe. The climate of Mont’ Estoril is noticeably warmer
than Lisbon in the winter, and the diurnal variations of temperature are
smaller; whilst the humidity and rainfall, which in Lisbon during the
three winter months form its only natural drawback, are very much
smaller at Mont’ Estoril. It is, indeed, very rare that mist is seen at
the latter place, even when the Tagus valley is full of haze. From
personal knowledge of both places I should say that the mean winter
rainfall of Mont’ Estoril is much less than that of Biarritz, whilst
certainly its temperature is higher and its uniformity greater.