I have dwelt only upon the winter climatic conditions, because it is in
this respect that misapprehension usually exists. The spring and autumn
climate generally is simply perfect, and from the middle of March onward
fine warm weather, with only an occasional heavy shower in April, May,
and October, may be counted upon almost with certainty. During the
particular tour of which this book is a record, I passed thirty days in
Portugal in the month of October. Out of this period I saw rain on four
days only—namely, three hours of deluge at Oporto, a portion of the day
at Bussaco, and two days at Lisbon; whilst in previous journeys in
Portugal I have on more than one occasion seen an even smaller quantity
of rain in October, April, and May. November is usually wet, though not
so wet as at Biarritz or Nice for the same month (Lisbon, 106
milimetres; Biarritz, 122 milimetres; Nice, 114 milimetres), whilst in
December and January Lisbon and Biarritz have about an equal rainfall,
Nice being in those months drier than either. From March onward Lisbon
has a decided advantage over both places.
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Footnote 5:
Byron, who, much as he loved Cintra, hated Lisbon and the Portuguese
generally, which perhaps is not very surprising when it is considered
that he visited it in 1809, after the first French invasion and before
the Peninsular War, thus wrote of Lisbon:—
“What beauties does Lisboa first unfold;
Her image floating on that noble tide,
Which poets vainly pave with sands of gold,
And now whereon a thousand keels do ride.
But whoso entereth within this town,
That sheening far celestial seems to be,
Disconsolate will wander up and down,
Mid many things unsightly to strange ee.”
Footnote 6:
The story of the expedition is told in full in “The Year after the
Armada,” by the present writer.
Footnote 7:
Lisbon, 738 milimetres; Biarritz, 1067 milimetres; Nice, 766
milimetres.
IX
SETUBAL, TROYA, AND EVORA