The capitals, too, of the north doorway of the
church are very curious, though apparently later than the cloister door,
one of the carvings representing a man in a long gown being devoured by
an animal’s head, doubtless an allegory of which the significance is
lost to us.
Another church of some interest is that of Mattosinhos, a large and
prosperous village adjoining the harbour of Leixões, where those who
come by sea to Oporto land. The way thither from the city by the
electric tramway lies along the river-side, and past the charming
tropical-looking public gardens at the Foz de Douro, where in the summer
heat the citizens of Oporto idle, flirt, and disport themselves in the
surf that breaks upon the sandy beach. The Church of Mattosinhos is a
great place of pilgrimage, for it possesses amongst other attractions a
miraculous image of Christ, which is venerated throughout Portugal, and
the shrine is a famous one. The church lies on a gentle eminence, and is
approached by a beautiful, wide, mosaic pavement, bordered by avenues of
planes and cork trees, under the shadow of which are six chapels
containing life-sized groups representing scenes in the passion of Our
Lord. The soft warm air from the sea comes heavy-laden with the scent of
flowers, and on one side of the church a grove of orange trees shelters
a merry school of boys, who do not even pause in their games to glance
at the curious stranger peering about amongst them. The outside of the
church, somewhat squat and solid eighteenth-century work, presents a
fair specimen of a style of which we shall see much later; a style not
at all ineffective, although its description may not sound attractive.
Its peculiarity consists in the admixture of brownish-grey granite, of
which all the architectural lines and salient points consist, with
panels or spaces of snow-white plaster between. In this pure air, under
a brilliant sun, the subdued colour of the granite softens the outlines,
whilst the white spaces prevent an appearance of gloom or heaviness.
Inside, the Church of Mattosinhos is grave and simple in its
architectural features, but, as usual, the altars, and especially the
chancel, are a riotous mass of gilt wood carving, without repose or
restraint.