I stood in the centre of a daring bridge, spanning with one bold arch of
nigh six hundred feet a winding rocky gorge. Far, far below me ran a
chocolate-coloured river crowded with quaint craft, some with
high-raised sheltered poops and crescent-peaked prows, some low and long
astern with bows like gondolas and bright red lateen sails, upon which
the fierce sun blazed sanguinely. On the right side thickly, and on the
left more sparsely, climbing up the stony sides of the gorge, were piled
hundreds of houses, pink, pale-blue, buff, and white, all with glowing
red-tiled roofs, and each set amidst a riot of verdure which trailed and
waved upon every nook and angle uncovered by buildings. Trellised vines
clustered and flowers flaunted in tiny back-yards and square-enclosed
courts by the score, all on different levels, but all open to the
down-gazing eyes of the spectator on the bridge high above them. Here
and there a tall palm waved its plumes as in unquiet slumber, but
everywhere else was the impression of ardent, throbbing, exuberant life,
such as all organic creation feels under the spur of stinging sunshine
and the salt twang of the sea-breeze. The river gorge winds and turns so
tortuously that the view forward and backward is not extensive, but as
far as the eye reaches on each side of the umber stream the hills of
houses and far-spread terraced vineyards beyond rise precipitously, with
just a quayside at foot on the banks of the stream, thronged now with
folk who swarm, gather, and separate like gaudy ants, and apparently no
bigger, as seen from the coign of vantage on the bridge. To my left, as
I stand looking towards the west, there crowns the summit of the ridge
close by a vast white monastery against a green background; a monastery
now, alas! like all others in this Catholic land, profanated and turned
to purposes of war instead of peace, but, withal, there still rears its
modest rood aloft upon the crest one poor little round chapel where the
sainted image of Pilar of the Ridge stolidly receives the devotion of
the faithful. To the right, the height is crowned by a vast square
episcopal palace, and near it, over all, is the glittering golden cross
that shines upon the city from the summit of the square cathedral
towers. This is Oporto, The Port _par excellence_, which gives its name
to Portugal, seen from the double-decked iron bridge of Dom Luis over
the Douro.