And these were precisely the feelings that prompted the establishment
here of the Dominican abbey at the instance of its English foundress,
Philippa of Lancaster, daughter of John of Gaunt, married in 1386 John,
the Master of Avis, the high-minded and patriotic bastard of the royal
house, who had successfully resisted Spanish aggression the year before,
and, with the assistance of the English archers at Aljubarrota, had
gained for himself the crown of Portugal. Here in the neighbourhood of
the battle, at the instance of Philippa, was built this abbey of
Dominican monks in devotional thankfulness for the signal victory, and
for the rescue of the King from threatened death. All through the older
portion of the building the English Plantagenet influence is
predominant, and marks the abbey as being entirely different from all
other ecclesiastical buildings in Portugal.
The monastery was always a poorly endowed one, in glaring contrast to
the neighbouring Cistercian house of Alcobaça, one of the richest
monastic houses in the world. Beckford, in his humorous description of
his visit to both houses in 1782, draws a lively comparison between the
two. Accompanied by two great Portuguese prelates, of whom he makes
merciless fun, he had gone to see Alcobaça at the wish of the Prince
Regent. His great train of servants and attendants had been received
with lavish splendour and Gargantuan gluttony at Alcobaça, and on the
way with the prelate of the latter house to visit Batalha, the whole
party had got drunk at Aljubarrota, whose wine is famous. They arrived
at Batalha at night.
“Whilst our sumpter mules were unloading, and ham and pies and
sausages were rolling out of plethoric hampers, I thought these poor
monks looked on rather enviously. My more fortunate companions—no
wretched cadets of the mortification family these, but the true
elder sons of fat mother church—could hardly conceal their sneers of
conscious superiority. A contrast so strongly marked amused me not a
little.... The Batalha prior and his assistants looked quite
astounded when they saw the gauze-curtained bed and the Grand
Prior’s fringed pillow, and the Prior of St. Vincent’s superb
coverlid, and basins and ewers and other utensils of glittering
silver being carried in. Poor souls! they hardly knew what to do or
say or be at—one running to the right, another to the left—one
tucking up his flowing garments to run faster, and another rebuking
him for such a deviation from monastic decorum.”
I have in my library a manuscript account by Lord Strathmore of the
visit he paid to the two monasteries twenty years before Beckford, and
his account of the poverty of Batalha in comparison with Alcobaça is
more emphatic still. He says:—