Iconoclasm and war have wrought their fell work upon Batalha since then;
but still the lovely fane stands materially uninjured. The
transept-chapels and sacristy are fine, especially the latter, though
the seventeenth-century carved woodwork matches ill with the exquisite
pure Gothic groining of the roof, and the great yellow sarcophagus of
Diego Lopez de Souza, master of the Order of Christ, in the adjoining
chapel of St. Barbara, is a remarkable piece of sixteenth-century work.
One of the great glories of Batalha is the side chapel already
mentioned, the octagonal “chapel of the Founder.” The arrangement of it
and its general effect are strikingly like those of Queen Victoria’s
mausoleum at Frogmore. In the centre, standing high and imposing in all
the pomp of Gothic tracery, are the twin tombs of John the Great and his
English wife, their sculptured effigies hand in hand as the noble pair
went through life; and around the chapel are ranged the sarcophagi of
their sons Pedro, João, Fernando (who chivalrously passed all the best
years of his life a hostage to the Moor), and, the greatest of them all,
the Prince Dom Henrique the Navigator, who made Portugal a world power.
Upon each stone coffin are carved the insignia of the Garter and the
arms of England quartered with those of Portugal, and along the fillets
run the quaint mottoes that each royal personage adopted for his device.
Some of them are enigmatical; such as that which consists of the
repetition of the word “_Désir_” alternating with the scale of justice,
and the other that offers the riddle of “VII.,” a cogwheel, and
“_Jamais_” repeated again and again. “Pro rege pro grege,” on the other
hand, if hackneyed, is still quite intelligible.
“All these princes,” says Beckford, “in whom the high bearing of
their intrepid father and the exemplary virtues and strong sense of
their mother were united, repose after their toil and suffering in
this secluded chapel, which, indeed, looks a place of rest and holy
quietude; the light equally diffused, forms, as it were, a tranquil
atmosphere, such as might be imagined worthy to surround the
predestined to happiness in a future world. I withdrew from the
contemplation of these tombs with reluctance, every object in the
chapel that contains them being so pure in taste, so harmonious in
colour, every armorial device, every mottoed label, so tersely and
correctly sculptured.... The Plantagenet cast of the whole chamber
conveyed to me a feeling so interesting, so congenial, that I could
hardly persuade myself to move away.”
Every word written by Beckford a hundred and twenty years ago of this
chapel is true to-day, and I could have lingered for hours before the
coffins of these heroic princes and their parents in a day-dream of
recollection prompted by their noble lives and deeds.