Nasby in Exile: or, Six Months of Travel in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, with many things not of travel
John Locke · en
Good-bye for the present to London. Good-bye to its smoke, its fogs, its
predatory hackmen, its bad water, its worse beer, its still worse gin.
Good-bye to its eternal rains, its never-ending badly dressed men and
worse dressed women. Good-bye to very bad bread. Good-bye to the
greatest collection of shams and realities, goodness and cruelty in the
world. Seven weeks in London and its environs is all that an American
can endure, who ever expects to get back to his own country. Were fate
to have a spite at him, and condemn him to make his residence there
forever, he would settle down as a man does in a penitentiary and do the
best he could, but for one who has a hope of returning to a country that
was made after the Maker had had some experience in making countries, a
longer stay in London than seven weeks would be too much. Seven weeks of
biliousness and depression--seven weeks of exasperation and discomfort,
seven weeks of extortion and tipping, seven weeks in an English suit of
clothes, is all that an average American can endure.
And so good-bye to London till we renew our strength and can tackle it
again. It is not exhausted, nor could it be in a year. It is a brute
among cities, but it is a mastodon. It is a very large and variegated
animal.
[Sidenote: THE LANDLADY'S OBJECTION TO PARIS.]
To the south lies France--La Belle France--and thither we go. Our
landlady would hold us if she could, and gives expression to many
reasons why we should stay in London: It is very warm in Paris; it is
very disagreeable crossing the channel; Paris is unhealthy. At this time
of the year Paris is crowded, and it is probable that we will not be
able to get apartments such as would be suitable. It is not the season
in Paris, and we had better go there later, and so on and so forth. You
see the season in London is waning, and the good lady will have
difficulty in filling her rooms. It is delicately hinted that if a
slight deduction in rent (we have been paying three prices) would be an
object, etc. But it all avails nothing. We should go to Paris if we
should be compelled to sleep under a bridge and eat in a market. It is
not so much to get to Paris as it is to get out of London, and raise our
spirits to something like their normal condition. And so, when the good
woman finds there is no holding us, she makes out our bill vindictively,
racking her imagination to find items to insert, and weeping, no doubt,
after our departure, over items that she might have inserted, but, in
the hurry, forgot. The cabman, knowing by the station he was driving us
to that we were going, managed to charge an extra shilling, and at the
lunch counter at the station we paid an extra penny for the everlasting
ham sandwich, which was to be the last. And when the last tip was paid,
and the last extortion submitted to, we were finally locked in our
villainous compartment, and were off. London, or the fog that covered