Nasby in Exile: or, Six Months of Travel in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, with many things not of travel
John Locke · en
We determined to stop over one train at Rouen, to see not only a French
city, but the old statue of the French heroine, Joan of Arc, who was
there burned at the stake, and the famous cathedral therein. Tibbitts,
Lemuel, was of the party, and a Professor in a western college likewise.
The Professor was calmly enthusiastic, and Tibbitts was unutterably
miserable. He could not speak a word of French, and it puzzled him to
even order a drink. And then the wine! He did not like wine, and French
brandy was not to his taste. He managed to make them understand,
however, what he wanted, and managed to get it a minute after he landed
from the cars.
It was Sunday, but the shops were all open, and newsboys were crying
their papers upon the streets. Their announcements were very long, and
Tibbitts stood and heard one of them clear through.
[Sidenote: THE PROFESSOR'S ECSTACY.]
"Listen to the little villain," he exclaimed. "I don't believe a d--d
word of it." And Mr. Tibbitts preached a short sermon anent the
exaggerations common to newsboys, recounting the number of times he had
been induced by their false representation to purchase papers in
America. He considered himself too old to be taken in by a French
newsboy. "Newsboys are the same in Rouen as in Oshkosh," he said.
After a light lunch in an arbor in a delicious garden back of a café, we
started to see Rouen, its cathedral and the statue of Joan, and what
else was to be seen. We urged Tibbitts to accompany us. He concluded to
do it, though he protested it was far more pleasant to sit in that
arbor, even though it was beastly wine he was drinking instead of the
delicious whisky of Oshkosh, than it was tramping around in search of
antiquities.
We came to a narrow street, one of the kind only to be seen in French
cities. The entire space from wall to wall could not have been twelve
feet, and on either hand were curious houses, seven stories high,
entered by dark, narrow tunnels rather than passages, but with flowers
at every window, clear to the queer, quaint top, which was continued
after it had reached what should have been its summit. The professor
stopped before one of these dark passages, and observed a parcel of illy
dressed but marvelously clean children--there are no dirty children in
France--playing some game.
"It is wonderful!" said the Professor, in an ecstacy; "here are we, of
the new West, standing on ground in a street through which, may be, the
soldiers of old France marched. Here are we within sight of the place
where Joan of Arc was burned, on ground pressed by the feet of
Charlemagne. In this house, perchance, were born heroes; within these
walls for hundreds of years have been born children who have grown to
manhood, and died. These children, playing in this gutter, were born in
this historic city, and----"