Nasby in Exile: or, Six Months of Travel in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, with many things not of travel
John Locke · en
There are Tweeds in every country, but these were greater than our great
peculator. The Emperor Napoleon and Baron Haussman were just as much
greater than Tweed as France is greater than the single city of New
York. But then their opportunities were greater. Had Tweed had a chance
he might have risen to the front rank.
It is perhaps as well for Paris that it had an Emperor, and possibly it
would have been better for the United States had she had a King in her
earlier days. For a republic will never do toward the beautifying a city
or country what an Emperor will. I helped to elect a member of Congress
once, who, finding that a single door in the Capitol at Washington cost
twenty thousand dollars, exclaimed against the extravagance of the
country. "Why," said he, "a good two inch pine plank door, painted
white, with three coats of paint, can be had in Upper Sandusky for eight
dollars, and it would do just as well as this infernal bronze thing
covered all over with figures."
Had Paris been governed by a Congress, the honorable gentlemen from
Normandy, and Savoy, and other out-lying districts, would never have
paid for the wonderfully beautiful boulevards that make Paris the most
beautiful city in the world. The old alleys were good enough for their
fathers, and why not for the present generation?
But the will of a single man did it, and the memory of that man is still
worshiped in Paris. Dead though he be, he wields power in Paris to-day,
and had not his son been so reckless in Africa, the chances are a
hundred to one that he would to-day be occupying his father's throne.
New Paris is made up of beautiful wide boulevards, some of them two
hundred feet wide, with sidewalks at least thirty feet wide on either
side, and lined with shops and cafés, the shops devoted almost entirely
to the sale of articles of luxury.
The cafés are very peculiar. Paris lives, as much as possible, out of
doors, for Paris desires to see and be seen. Therefore, in front of
every café, under tasteful awnings, are chairs and little white sheet
iron tables; there sits Paris, drinking its drinks and eating its light
repasts, from early morning till very late at night.
To an American it is a most peculiar sight. No matter where you go, in
old Paris or new, it is the same, except in the grade of the people. In
old Paris you see blue blouses and calico dresses at these tables, and
in new Paris broadcloth and silk, but the tables are there on the
sidewalk, and the people sitting by them, the same in one as in the
other, and very jolly they are.
[Illustration: THE LOUVRE FROM THE RUE DE RIVOLI.]
[Sidenote: DRINKING IN PARIS.]