Nasby in Exile: or, Six Months of Travel in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, with many things not of travel
John Locke · en
At all the theaters, including the Grand Opera, free performances were
given during the afternoon, and there were all sorts of entertainments
provided by the government for the amusement of the populace. In various
quarters of the city platforms were erected, and all during that warm
afternoon the working classes danced to the music of superb orchestras,
which were furnished to them without money and without cost.
[Illustration: THE AVENUE DE L'OPÉRA
From the Loggia of the Opera House.]
But when evening came the fête was seen to its best advantage. As it
grew dark the whole city blazed with light. There were millions of
lanterns of every possible color, hanging from every point that could
hold a support. Electric lights flashed from every corner, and gas jets
blazed everywhere. The Boulevard des Italiens, from the Madelaine to the
Bastille, was as light as though a noonday sun were pouring down upon
it. And so with the other large thoroughfares, while the different
_quartiers_ had illuminations of their own, each of which was
wonderfully brilliant.
The one particular place that eclipsed all others was the two mile
stretch from the Tuileries to the Arch of Triumph, and then on to the
Bois de Boulogne. The straight promenade through the Tuileries garden
was lined on either side with a high trestle work, literally covered
with fanciful designs wrought in gas, while high arches of brilliant
flame intersected it at regular intervals.
The Place de Concorde was a marvel of beauty. All around the immense
square were hung festoons of gas jets, while all the statues of the
different cities of France that ornament each corner, were thrown into
bold relief by brilliant lights on the limpid water of the fountain in
the center; different colored lights were thrown during the evening, the
effect being wondrously beautiful.
[Illustration: CAFÉ CONCERTS--CHAMPS ELYSÉES.]
[Sidenote: JOLLITY AND PATRIOTISM.]
Standing in the center of the place, and looking towards the arch, the
sight was simply marvelous. Nowhere in the world but in Paris could such
a thing be seen. The broad avenue, Champs Elysées, rising with a gentle
slope, was lined its whole distance on both sides with a stream of
light, that drooped gracefully from cluster to cluster, all the way
out, as far as the eye could reach. Then the concert cafés which abound
on either side, made unusual displays, swinging lines of light from tree
to tree and café to café, till the effect was dazzling, and one really
had to stop to realize that he was here on earth and not in some fairy
land.