Nasby in Exile: or, Six Months of Travel in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, with many things not of travel
John Locke · en
We entered by an avenue of poplars and other trees and shrubs, so
illuminated by jets of gas sprinkled among the foliage as to give
it the effect of enchantment. We found flower-beds laid out in
every conceivable form, with diminutive jets of gas so distributed
as to imitate flowers of the softest tints and the most perfect
shape. In the centre there is a circle of pillars, on the top of
each of which is a pot of flowers with gas jets, and between them
an arch of gas jets. In the midst of this is another circle,
forming a pavilion for musicians, also brilliantly illuminated, and
containing a large cotillion band of the most finished performers.
Around this you find thousands of gentlemen and ladies strolling,
singly, in pairs, or in groups. While the musicians repose they
loiter, sauntering round, or recline on seats. But now a lively
waltz strikes the ear. In an instant twenty or thirty couples are
whirling along, floating like thistles in the wind, around the
central pavilion. Their feet scarce touch the smooth-trodden earth.
Round and round, in a vortex of life, beauty and brilliancy they
go, a whirlwind of delight, eyes sparkling, cheeks flushing, and
gauzy draperies floating by, while the crowds outside gather in a
ring and watch the giddy revel. There are countless forms of
symmetry and grace, faces of wondrous beauty; there, too, are feats
of agility and elasticity quite aerial. One lithe and active dancer
grasped his fair partner by the waist; she was dressed in red, was
small, elastic, agile, and went by like the wind, and in the course
of a very few seconds he would give her a whirl and a lift, sending
her spinning through the air, around himself as an axis, full four
feet from the ground. It is a scene perfectly unearthly, or rather
perfectly Parisian, and just as earthly as possible; yet a scene
where earthliness is worked up into a style of sublimation the most
exquisite conceivable. Aside from the impropriety inherent in the
very nature of waltzing, there was not a word, look or gesture of
immorality or impropriety. The dresses were all decent, and if
there was a vice it was vice masked under the guise of polite
propriety.
It was different in the Summer of 1881. The dancers were professionals;
the poor, painted, broken down danseuses of the minor theaters, and the
male dancers were professionals, or semi-professionals, who came every
night and went through the same dreary performance.
Now it is no more. It existed forty years; poets have raved over its
habitues; women who made their _debut_ on the treacherous surface of
Parisian life, survive only in their rhymes, and the visitor to Paris
next season will find in its place imposing structures devoted to trade.
It is well. The more trade and the less Mabille the better for the
world.