Nasby in Exile: or, Six Months of Travel in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, with many things not of travel
John Locke · en
These nymphs of the paddle and soap-kettle are industrious workers, with
strong muscular arms that seem capable of doing any kind of work, as
indeed they are. It is no small matter to carry down to the river the
enormous bundles of superlatively filthy clothes, and after the soaping
and beating and wringing, carrying them home wet and heavy. But possibly
there are no more pounds to carry home than they brought. There is added
weight in the water they hold, but the dirt is gone down the river to
form bars below and impede navigation. Possibly the loss of the dirt
balances the increased weight of the water. It is a stand-off.
These women earn a good living, for there is any quantity of laundrying
to do, not from the citizens, but from the horde of tourists who throng
the city and make Geneva their headquarters for the Alpine tour, and who
here lay in a fresh stock of linen.
[Illustration: GROUP OF SWISS GIRLS.]
[Sidenote: A GENEVAN BAKERY.]
The Genevan, like all other men of French or partially French
extraction, is a tremendous worker, and this includes the female as well
as the male. The male Genevan is up with the lark, or whatever bird in
Switzerland has the disagreeable habit of early rising, and his labor
continues as long as he can see, and even after. And he works, not in a
perfunctory sort of way, but tackles his business as though he was doing
it for the simple liking of it. He is a most persistent and rapid
worker.
I was exploring the old part of the city one night, and in groping
through the narrow, half-underground passages, I came upon a baker's
shop. As I wanted to get at the secret of the delicious bread for which
the French are famous, I investigated. It was a scorching night, but
nevertheless there was a roaring oven, heated seven times hotter than
any furnace I had ever read of, except one. In front of this furnace,
were the mixing and kneading troughs, and at them, in a space of not
more than twenty feet square, were a score or more of men naked to the
waist, with perspiration pouring from every pore, at work at the stiff
and tenacious dough. They would lift a mass of it half as large as their
bodies, and slap it about, and pull it out, and compress it, and
elongate it, and torture it in all sorts of shapes, and in every way
possible for dough to be tortured. It was as hard manual labor as I had
ever seen performed.
[Illustration: THE SWEAT OF OTHER MEN'S BROWS.]
And finally after the dough had been tormented a sufficient length of
time it was formed into rolls, five or six feet long, and not more than
six inches in diameter, and placed in the oven, from whence it emerged
the most deliciously crisp bread that ever was eaten, and entirely
different from the heavy, soggy English bread which has dyspepsia in
every crumb of it.