Nasby in Exile: or, Six Months of Travel in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, with many things not of travel
John Locke · en
"Chillon, thy prison is a holy place,
And thy sad floor an altar, for 'twas trod--
Until his very steps have left a trace,
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod--
By Bonivard! May none those marks efface,
For they appeal from tyranny to God."
This ancient castle, built as far back as A.D. 830, stands in a
picturesque position on a barren rock some twenty yards from the shore,
with which it is connected by a wooden bridge. Its history is full of
romance, from the time Louis le Debonnaire incarcerated within its
gloomy walls--from which but the sky, the Alps, and Lake Leman, could be
seen--the Abbot Wala of Corvey, for instigating his sons to rebellion,
down to the reigns of the Counts of Savoy, who used it as a military
prison. The walls of its dingy dungeons are literally covered with names
of persons who have visited them, among others being those of Byron,
Victor Hugo, George Sands, and Eugene Sue.
Here in Republican Switzerland the traces only of monarchy remain, for
which the Swiss should perpetually thank heaven. Everywhere else in
Europe the monster actually lives--here only its ghost survives. It is
here a remembrance to be shuddered at, not a living reality. But they
had it here once. There was a time, and the Castle of Chillon is a
silent testimony to it, when a duke or a king, who claimed to be of
better clay than ordinary mortals, could seize a man and immure him
within its gloomy walls, just as Victoria, by the accident of birth,
Mistress of Britain, may order the arrest of an Irishman who opens his
mouth the wrong way. Kilmainham is the Irish Chillon, and there are
within its walls men whose hair is turning gray, not in a single night,
but turning gray just as surely.
The ancient tyrants who lorded it over Switzerland were not one whit
worse than the tyrants who now lord it over Europe. Royalty is royalty,
the same in all ages, because based upon the same infernal heresy. It is
the absolute rule of a class, backed by organized force.
Switzerland, America and France have repudiated it, and the rest of the
civilized world will. But what oceans of blood must flow before all this
is accomplished.
In order to be a complete and very radical Republican one needs to visit
a few just such places as the Castle of Chillon, that the true
inwardness of monarchy may be realized.
As the castle, so full of historical interest, fades away, the boat
rounds the head of the lake, where the river Rhone pours its gray
glacial waters into the brilliant blue of the lake, making a clearly
defined mark of gray and blue at least a quarter of a mile from the
shore. Then Vernayaz is reached and we disembark for our trip across the
Alps.