Nasby in Exile: or, Six Months of Travel in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, with many things not of travel
John Locke · en
Leaving the Pavilion, a narrow foot-path, cut out of the side of the
mountain, leads to a long flight of steps, at the bottom of which we
reach the ice. There a long scramble over its slippery surface, to the
entrance of the cavern. Imagine a solid wall of clear, transparent ice.
Into this by means of picks and spades a cave eighty-five yards long,
eight feet wide and seven feet high has been dug. As you go in, the
little lights flickering along the side seem to say, "Who enters here
leaves hope behind." But we push on through the dripping water at the
entrance, and finally find ourselves walking on ice that is hard and
dry, while the atmosphere is cold enough to make an overcoat
comfortable.
From the end of the cavern the view is like a glimpse of fairyland. Away
down the dimly lighted tunnel, the tiny lights reflected against the
crystalline blue, can be seen the smooth surface of the ice, gradually
growing bluer and bluer until, at the very entrance, where the sunlight
pours down upon it, it becomes nearly transparent, forming a dazzling
frame to the bright picture of the glacier, the forest-covered mountain
and brilliant sky beyond.
[Sidenote: MARKING SHEETS AND THINGS.]
As we are about to emerge from the cavern the guide shows us a hole in
the side, where we can see, some distance off, a subterranean stream,
that has forced a channel through the ice. Here we can hear most
distinctly the glacier mills in full operation. There is one, very
large, near this spot, said to be sixteen hundred feet deep. It was
formed by the action of huge stones moved by the water against the ice,
making, during the ages the glacier has been in existence, a deep round
well in the ice. This low, rumbling noise we hear is the water rushing
into that well with terrific force, and working the stones against its
sides.
But we are aweary of mountain climbing and glacier exploring, and it is
with a sigh of relief that we retrace our steps, take another glass of
wine at the Pavilion, and, after a short rest, descend the mountain by
an easy path. A short drive, and we are in Chamonix, some of the party
telling marvelous stories of our hair-breadth escapes during our
perilous ascent of Mt. Blanc. Of course they didn't go up Mt. Blanc, but
the glacier gave them all the experience in mountain climbing they
wanted. It satisfied them just as well as though they had scaled the
great peak.
As a matter of course all these people purchased Alpenstocks, which they
had marked "Mt. Blanc, July 22, 1861," and were all photographed in
Alpine climbing costume, which the enterprising photographer leases you
for a consideration.
And these photographs went home with the Alpenstocks, and are to-day
being displayed upon center-tables and in albums, while the fraudulent
Alpenstock has the post of honor in libraries.