Nasby in Exile: or, Six Months of Travel in England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Switzerland and Belgium, with many things not of travel
John Locke · en
The scenery from Chamonix to Geneva, by the way of Sallanches, St.
Martin, Cluses and Bonneville is magnificent. Leaving Chamonix the road
winds down the beautiful valley with the Glacier des Bossons,
overshadowed by Mont Blanc, on the right, while on the left are the
pretty hamlets and fruitful farms that relieve the barren, rugged
mountains on either side.
The road, which is a marvel of smoothness, as are all the roads in
Switzerland, crosses and recrosses the river Arve, until, after passing
through a long tunnel, hewn through a massive rock, it strikes another
valley and makes a wide sweep around the horseshoe-shaped mountain,
giving a splendid view up and down the valley. Far across this valley is
a long high range of mountains down which at different places great
cataracts of water come tumbling, dashing the spray high in air.
Here we pass through the pretty village of St. Gervais, with its
celebrated baths. Then a long straight drive for an hour or more, and
with an extra crack of the whip the carriage whirls into Sallanches,
where the horses are changed, while the weary, hot and dusty travelers
rest and refresh themselves.
At St. Gervais is one celebrated bathing establishment conducted by an
Englishman and patronized almost entirely by English and Americans, the
principal treatment being for rheumatism and kindred diseases, and
especially for the alcoholic habit. It is claimed that the most
inveterate drunkard can be cured by the use of these waters, and
therefore it is continually full of men who have burned life's candle at
both ends, and who need rest from their vices, and moral, as well as
physical recuperation.
[Sidenote: MR. TIBBITTS' LETTER.]
Tibbitts determined to stay a week and test the efficacy of the waters.
"I shouldn't need it if I could have the regular Oshkosh sod-corn, but a
foundation of vile English brandy, and the edifice built up and topped
off with French cognac is too much for me. I will test the waters."
The fact that a half-dozen very wild Americans of his own age and tastes
were at the establishment was really what induced him to stay, but he
repeated over and again, that what he wanted was to stay a while in a
place where rum was impossible. He wanted to get away from it.
We left him, and the next week I received a letter, the following being
an extract therefrom:--
"I did not go over to the Cure at once, for the day you left I met
a young American, troubled as I was, who decided to go with me.
Slosson (he is from St. Louis) and I, having met the proprietor of
the Cure and taken a fancy to him, determined to do him a good
turn, and to that end we would not go to his establishment till we
had got ourselves into a condition that would make a cure
creditable. I am always ready to make sacrifices for those I love.
"We then went over to the establishment to get out of the way of
rum.